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Old 09-17-2012, 04:57 PM  
bryce
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Hi Neal, i will post some pics soon. But it is only the 2 bay 70x48" windows that this fellow DIY'ed, Actually the 2nd window is better. You can see the problem with the first already how he just broke it there.

I'm think is there no high tech fix for this? Why not just put a metal frame in there?

I guess the windows could be replaced. In that case with the as you say 6" sides, i would have to make the window smaller. 70"-12=58"
Just as well. But people around here like big windows, big cars etc.



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Old 09-17-2012, 05:35 PM  
nealtw
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(IF)there is little load above, you can get away with out a header. That would be if the ceiling joists and rafters don't land on this wall. That would require a wood framed gable end above the window. You may want to repost that photo in Bricks and Masonary. You may find people with more knowledge about this stuff.



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Old 09-18-2012, 07:39 AM  
staceybrown281
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For me, you should make a new window for your house just for your safety. And if not, you should call for help. It's not good at all.

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Old 09-18-2012, 04:31 PM  
bryce
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I don't think it so bad. With the wood and concret the ceiling is supported already.
1) Take the windows out
2) Put the new support as it was the originally, red. The structural issue would be fixed at this point.
3) Metal elbow for extra support of the header.
4) Filling in with more supporting 2x4"
5) Put window in
6) Fix outside siding
7) New dry wall with straps
8) T&G oak finish

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Old 09-18-2012, 04:56 PM  
nealtw
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Angle brakets won't do anything. Pull the window add two 2x4s each side buy a window 6" smaller.

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Old 09-18-2012, 06:40 PM  
bryce
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i was just thinking a wide plate of metal 4" x 75" screwed in the over the header would be a good idea.

Another thing i figured out... there is nothing really wrong with the windows! Is been like this for 20 years, the window still open flawlessly.
The whole problem is with rotten support beam causes why the missing flashing. Which causes the beam to sag and the attic floor to sag. Also causing the the wood panelling to bulge.

I should be able to raise the attic floor by taking the windows out and putting in a 2x4" , 1/4" + and just jam it up in the middle of the window. Then same with the support above and raise the floor a bit above.

So i don't know, maybe keep the existing window. They seem to be double pane glass not that bad really. E-ion would be much better.

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Old 09-18-2012, 06:52 PM  
bryce
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So how can i finish these cord concrete walls?
I'm think bolt on a sheet of insulation and finish with horizontal t&G.

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Old 09-18-2012, 10:58 PM  
nealtw
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Like I said if you have a gable over this window and the ceiling joist don't land on this wall you really don't have to worry about the header.
When we finish a basement with concrete walls we build a new wall 1" away from the concrete. I don't know what they usually do in brick houses but foam sounds like an ideal.

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Old 09-19-2012, 05:12 AM  
bryce
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see below-----

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Old 09-19-2012, 12:41 PM  
bryce
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Okay new plan. The structural can be fixed i believe with metal.
What do you guys think? I just talked to the owner and he says it was 30 years ago done professionally.

1. Fill in masonry on bottom with concrete and stone. patch up masonry.
2. Place support 2x4 in window
2. Drill pilot holes. and screw in metal cross plate of 4x74" and 1/4" thick. I think about 20-30 screws. Actually 1/4" is over kill, 1/8" is fine.
3. Nail in cross beam support above the window, on to old rot board and diagonally.
4. Finish with roxol above window. Order new windows to be replaced.

So guys, will this work? It's all strong fur wood, i was checking the rot it is only 1/4- 1/8" deep with a nail, not so bad.

I guess i have to find a metal shop?



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