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-   -   Removing a bathtub (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/removing-bathtub-328/)

BassMan 12-11-2005 08:01 PM

Removing a bathtub
 
Is it difficult to tear out an old cermanic bathtub and install a new one?

Is it something a experienced DIY guy can do?

Someone told me I would probably have to tear out the wall in order to do it.

Always true?

HandyMac 12-12-2005 07:40 AM

Measure the door width---often the bathroom doors are the most narrow doors in a house---- and the tub dimensions. Also figure in the space outside the bathroom door---hallway or room.

Measure the length of the tub---will it fit through the door when the tub is vertical?

If there is room to maneuver the tub horizontally---and it will fit through all the doors to the outside-----you can get the tub out with a couple of helpers.

If there is a hallway out side the bathroom, the tub will need to be removed standing on end----which means it needs to be shorter than the height of the door.

Also factor in the dimensions of the new unit.

pqglen 12-14-2005 09:24 PM

tub removal
 
The tub has a lip of about one inch around the top. this is behind the wall and cannot be seen. houses are built around tubs. the wall must be cut in order to remove the tub but the whole wall does not have to be removed in most cases. a minimum of four to six inches around the entire tub will need to be removed before demo-ing the tub Often the wall is skined ( remove tile and drywall ) because when replacing the tub it is a good time to upgrade the rest of the shower area ie tile and fixtures. First you must remove the overflow and drain if it is stubborn coming out I break them will a chisel and hammer. When removing a tub if it is a thin steel or fiberglass I cut them in half with a grinder. this is almost allways faster then popping them out with a bar. On a cast tub I break them with a digging bar or a sledge hammer I work the area near the drain as it is the weak point. Dont do this at midnight as it will make a hell of a racket. the skirt is the hardest part to break. I almost allways remove the toilet before I start as it in the way most times. Good luck in your demo I hope this helps.

BillsCatz 12-23-2005 04:29 AM

+200 lbs too
 
These guys have said it all, this really isn't a job for Joe DIY unless he plans to spend several days at it along with a couple strong pals. This is no joke. =) It's a lot of heavy work and requires some knowledge.

Some points to ponder are that the tub is also wider than the walls OUTSIDE the tiled tub surround -- as will be the equivalent new tub -- and doing this tub swap may require removing the sink, toilet and door frame as well.

The old tub can be broken up with a sledge hammer and taken out in pieces, but the new tub has to be squeezed in. Which means removing enough tile and board behind it to deal with tipping the new tub in at an angle -- one end slightly higher than the other.

An old cast iron/porcelain tub weighs about 200 lbs and even the pieces are heavy -- yes, those broken ends are sharp.

I'd say this is a safe DIY project only is you have another bathroom -- this one will definitely be off-line for a while.

TxBuilder 12-23-2005 05:19 PM

After you have the old tub ripped out and the new tub ready to install is hooking up the drain to the new tub a breeze or does it require some knowledge?

pqglen 12-26-2005 01:27 PM

Setting a tub
 
It requires some skill yet no of this is rocket science. Doing the job with a person with experience would be prefrable. Tub installs vary from job to job so it is difficult to give an exact install process. Billcatz above describes an accurate method of tipping one in at an angle. On some installs if you have enough room they can slide in on thier base. I like using the Americast tubs as they have the same look as a cast tub but are far easier to install based on the weight. The drain can be prefabbed with carefull measurments. I never go off the measurments on the drawing. I set the on two by fours in the garage. I take the measurments there, prefab the overflow and make sure it fits. when I intall the overflow into the p trap I often use a fernco rubber coupler to provide some play for the install. Some customers perfer not to have one in this case I measure to the 16ths and hope for the best. On installs with the walls out the process is much easier as you have full access and can adjust accordinglly. on installs without access if it does not fit correctlly it is often neccary to create one for any adjustments that are needed. hope this helps
pqglen


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