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Old 11-29-2011, 07:47 PM  
kleinbiker1
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Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
That would be fine except then you would have two roof lines acting as a funnel dumping rain and snow at the foot of the garages foundation.

Yeah I totally agree on this one, plus these kits likely triple the cost of what I'm looking to do and look horrible in my opinion.


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Old 11-29-2011, 08:04 PM  
kleinbiker1
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This is basically the idea I had but making the outer end a little lower to increase the pitch of the new roof to help handle possible snow loads.

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Old 11-30-2011, 12:54 AM  
BridgeMan
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If it were mine, I'd be tempted to use 6 x 6 treated (incised) posts, set in concrete, below the frost line--both for their additional stability, and their ability to be notched and through-bolted at the header connections (as joecaption suggested), making a far more rigid and stable structure. And I don't think I would ever rely on concrete block, or especially the lighter cinder block, to attach a ledger to. One heavy snow event, and it's all over, with the entire wall pulling out and collapsing. Much better to make the carport free-standing, with 6 x 6s adjacent to the block wall to support a "high-side" header at any elevation you want. Could even cantilever the joists/rafters over it, taper-cutting the ends to enable the roof sheathing to butt up to the garage roof, with flashing tucked under the garage shingle-line you intersect.

Something else to think about--if you're using 2 x 6s for joists/rafters, put them in at 12" centers. Much less deflection under any load than 24", with better performance. I don't think you mentioned a span length, but 2 x 6s at 24" centers are pretty much maxed out at a span of just over 7', using an allowable bending stress of 1500 psi, allowable deflection of L/240, and a 50 psf live (snow) load.

Thinking outside of the box, why not consider building a complete roof now, tied into the existing garage full-height, coming off as a "T"-eed gable? That way, you wouldn't be tearing things out and re-doing them in a year or two, but simply infilling the walls and floor to make a "real" garage addition when you can afford it.

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Old 11-30-2011, 06:27 AM  
joecaption
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By attaching a ledger the way you suggest you will loose about 16" of needed heigth. Not sure why it's behond your abilitys, it may be something you have not done before but it's simple to do, just remove a few cources of shingles, mark a line with a chauk line and cut the roof sheathing just enough back to fit the 2 X 6 rafters for a ceiling. Then just nail the two together sitting side by side.
But the outside post and beam needs to be in place before anything else gets done. If you do it with the 6 X 6's I suggested, use 1/2 carrage bolts through bolted and use 2 X 10's on both sides of the 6 X 6's, you could span the whole distance with no center post.
No having to find a hammer drill with a long enough 1/2 bit to go through the block, no drilling, no having to attach all those joist hangers, no having to buy all those long carrage bolts washers and nuts.
PS make sure you call Miss Utility or whatever it's called in you area before any digging.

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