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-   -   Taking out old bathroom shower and tub? (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/taking-out-old-bathroom-shower-tub-17885/)

rond67 07-17-2014 07:50 PM

Taking out old bathroom shower and tub?
 
Can you tell me how hard would it be to actually take out the following shower and tub, it’s all 1 piece and cracked under the tub because it’s hollow, it’s like molded wtf?

I was looking online and supposedly we’d need to cut above the edge of the shower and take out the drywall then find the nails holding it in place and take them out. Also cut it apart with a sawzall.

Does the bottom sit on some kind of cement or something to angle the tub? Someone keeps telling me it needs to be angled toward the drain and some mortar cement, is that true?

Checkout the pictures and help is appreciated

http://s7.postimg.org/fktwy7dfb/DSCN0840.jpg

http://s7.postimg.org/lvz4emenr/DSCN0841.jpg

http://s7.postimg.org/6yqndm1fb/DSCN0842.jpg

http://s7.postimg.org/5sr8sk2if/DSCN0843.jpg

rond67 07-17-2014 07:50 PM

http://s7.postimg.org/99tavj1kn/DSCN0844.jpg

http://s7.postimg.org/sqe0i1won/DSCN0845.jpg

http://s7.postimg.org/s78x8s59z/DSCN0846.jpg

rond67 07-17-2014 07:51 PM

http://s7.postimg.org/9sye4sszb/DSCN0847.jpg

http://s7.postimg.org/xz91fxf3r/DSCN0848.jpg

The crack

http://s7.postimg.org/mlmi4q4l3/DSCN0849.jpg

nealtw 07-17-2014 08:03 PM

Your plan is about right and not likely you wil find anything under it. These things are repairable, if you are interested.

CallMeVilla 07-18-2014 12:10 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Be brave! Remove the fixture handles first, including the cover of the shower mixing valve and the tub stopper. Remember to use a rag to plug the tub drain and keep debris out of your line.

You can do a shallow cut with a sawzall along the edge of the tub surround to loosen it. Them you can do similar shallow cuts vertically to remove sections of the surround. Be very careful around the shower control valve so you do not cut any of the supply lines. Those lines typically run vertically up from the floor (but not always). The shower head supply line runs vertically from the mixing valve, so it is easy to avoid. Study the diagram I provided before cutting.

If the tub is no cast iron (probably not) you can do the same operation to section it out.

Of course, you will want to turn off the water to your bathroom before doing any of this, just in case.

Plan on removing back to studs for the entire area. If you do not have access to the plumbing from behind the shower wall, now is the time to add access and shutoff valves for the future. The rebuild should include cement board (not drywall of any color), wall sealant such as RedGard, then whatever you want to do from there.

HAVE FUN!

zannej 07-18-2014 10:33 PM

I'm going to have to do the same thing soon. I have a one-piece fiberglass unit with a crack in the tub floor.

As for the bottom and slope-- if you are replacing it with another tub, some tubs come pre-sloped toward the drain. This means that you just need to make sure that the new tub will sit level. I've heard some people put some "mud" (for tiling) underneath the tub with a piece of felt on top to try to get it level. I'm actually going to have look in to techniques for leveling a tub and the floor under it.

I've seen people just smash the fiberglass units apart with sledgehammers, but sawing them up might be better. sledgehammer but be more therapeutic... LOL.

Your shower unit looks better than mine. I've got an avocado green monstrosity.

Good luck, and please keep us posted of the progress and don't hesitate to come back if you have more questions.

nealtw 07-20-2014 11:35 PM

When you level a tub the tile will come down over the flange and sit close to the surface of the tup, that part of the surface must be level so the tile look right.

zannej 07-22-2014 03:14 AM

What if someone is putting up a surround instead of tile? Same thing with the overlap?

nealtw 07-22-2014 07:13 AM

Yes the slope is built into the tub.

zannej 07-25-2014 04:23 PM

Do you think it would work to put up say Wonderboard Lite as the walls (over a moisture barrier) and then put up a surround?

I'm curious as to how one prevents moisture from getting in where the cementboard/greenboard/wonderboard is punctured by screws...

Also, I can't get this to load right now, but is it any good?


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