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Old 11-16-2007, 04:21 AM  
kentaysdad
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hello all I am considering going with a tankless but was told by a local plumbing retailer that i would give up water pressure. does anyone know if this is indeed the case?



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Old 11-17-2007, 09:36 AM  
glennjanie
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Welcome Jon:
I don't think you will see a noticible loss in water pressure. The tubing in the demand heater is the same size we use on the outside, but there is quite a bit of length added to it. Maybe you could see a difference with pressure gauges but hardly notice it otherwise.
I think it is so wise to heat only the water you are using rather than having 30 to 80 gallons kept hot even while you sleep or are gone on vacation. I think this is what the young people call a 'no-brainer'.
Glenn



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Old 01-28-2008, 08:20 AM  
TheFentonGuy
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I've been thinking of doing this hear in the next year or so to our house. We currently have a gas hot water heater, rented from Vermont Gas. The rental alone is $130/yr. I was thinking of this as an alternative, but my plumbers who have done a number of installs with the recent "green" movement has told me that the only major draw back is that these units only work with the hot water on full blast. Is this true? Or is this just a first generation limitation? I don't think I want hot water on full blast when I want it. I wash dishes at night and would hate to have hot water on full blast instead of partially turned on.

Anyone hear of anything different?

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Old 02-13-2008, 12:02 PM  
patterrw
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My wife and I had an Eccotemp 40-H Tankless water heater (Nat. Gas) installed in our House on Dec. 15th...The unit (~$700) and about (~$350) for installation. I ran the electric (15amp GFCI) to save a little money...It is mounted on the exterior of the house, here in SC.

All in all we are very happy with the unit...It freed up some much needed room in our 1500 sq ft house, and we are very please with it, setting the thermostatic contol to 115 is PLENTY hot...we chose this setting because you can basically get in the shower and turn the hot water valve full on, and just crack the cold water valve a little bit.

problem: Location, Location, Location - We located the unit on the far end of the house, about 4 or 5 feet from the gas meter. This puts it a good 40 feet from the washer and kitchen sink (and dishwasher when we add one!) The old tank was on the opposite side of the house, about 35 feet from the full bath...this meant that when you went to take a shower, alot of cold water flowed before it got warm....now, when you go to wash dishes, alot of cold water flows until it gets warm. The pipes under the house are not insulated, and I think that would help to some extent.

We have had no problems with water pressure. Our old water heater was 43 gal Rheem circa 1995, and we were glad to replace it with something more efficient.

a potential solution to our problem is to add a small (10 to 15 Gal.) electric water heater underneath the kitchen sink. the tankless unit would do the heavy lifting (bringing the 'outside' water from water temperature from whatever it is up to the 115 degrees), which is where I believe the modern tanked water heater uses much of it's electricity. This small pony tank would feed the kitchen, laundry, dishwasher, and 1/2 bath (currently being planned) for that side of the house....another option I think would be a small under cabinet electric tankless water heater

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Old 02-13-2008, 02:12 PM  
glennjanie
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The tankless water heater has a 'flow-meter valve' in it that tells the controls that water is moving and thus turns on the heat. You may not have a sensitive enough flow meter and miss out on the turn on. You may also need a 2 stage water heater of some kind. It will boil water on low flow if the heater is running wide open.
They are becoming more and more sophisticated (and higher priced) as we use them.
Glenn



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