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inspectorD 01-14-2008 08:54 AM

Home energy use and savings
Energy is at a premium, saving it is your way to help beat it. Without going into saving the earth, you could do your part by checking out for some practical ways to save a buck or the earth. Whatever your take on it, I just want to start a thread to help folks em if you got em.:D

glennjanie 01-14-2008 11:18 AM

Good Morning 'D':
We are adding vinyl siding with the foam insulation, attic insulation and the rest of our storm windows, for starters.
We already have the Toyota Prius, Geothermal Heat Pump, CFL bulbs and energy star appliances. We are trying to help 'Poor Ol Al' to save the planet but I don't see us getting our own private jet anytime soon.
I also have a business plan to change chicken litter to Neat Diesel; or any other organic matter, we just have hundreds of chicken houses in Western Kentucky with 25,000 chickens in each one, each chicken producing 2 1/2 pounds of litter in a lifetime. Of course, a plan on paper has nothing to do with saving energy.

Adk 01-18-2008 07:45 AM

Man created clothing for a reason. God created your birthday suit for another reason. Wear clothing, within reason, when you should. Take clothing off, within reason LOL, when you should.
If it's 90 outside you should not be walking around your house in a long sleeved shirt with your AC on.
Wearing a short sleeved shirt in a house during the winter just means that you have your heat turned up to an excessive level or that you can afford your monthly fuel bill and don't care.
I've been guilty of doing both in the past. It's time we use our heads if we care.

phreaq 01-18-2008 09:03 AM

I am doing my best to cut my bottom line costs to 'run' my house. The fact that Mother Nature benefits is a bonus (sure, I'm selfish :))

I've replaced my 300 watt lights with CFLs, looking into wood as a heat source (instead of my current oil), sealed all my windows with removable caulk for the winter, and improving insulation everywhere. I also bought one of the energy meters that you plug into the wall, and then plug your appliance, lights, whatever into to see its load. It measures amp/watts/volts and does all the related math for you. You can even add your kw/hr cost to get a dollar value for the appliance in use. I bought it more for interest sake. I sleep better knowing my daily coffee costs 0.7 cents, and my superb rotisserie chicken that takes 1 1/2 hr to make only costs 7.8 cents :D

Glenn, by no means do I want to go into too much depth here, but there is a lot of conflicting data on the Prius, in terms of it's environmental footprint. It may be more efficient once it's built, but the energy needed and used to create the batteries, and to eventually dispose of them, outweighs some of the benefits.

guyod 01-19-2008 11:45 AM

Interesting i never heard of that before

sounds like alot more plumbing though and with the price of copper ouch. I dont want my cold water warm . so i guess you would have to run 2 lines.

It would be something to concider in a new contruction or major remodel coupled along with a tankless hot water heater.

I would like to see where the pipes combine and seperate. must look odd. i cant image what would be going through my head if i seen that in a house with out first reading this..

thanks for the info..

guyod 01-19-2008 03:02 PM

Thanks for the links. Going through only a 6 foot section makes more sense.

im seems more practical for motels like it says on the site. i dont see how it can pay for it self when a hot water heater only costs $400 a year to run.
and it is heating water over 120 degree and holds it there 24hours a day.

this thing only heats water an hour or 2 a day 10 by 20 degrees.

it seems like something to do just to be green.

thats just my opinion though

ToolGuy 01-19-2008 04:34 PM


Originally Posted by Educator (Post 14661)

That's pretty interesting. I left a comment but here it is verbatum for discussion:

The design for DWHR seems simple enough. At a cost of $600 to $800, I would think one could make their own with some copper tubing. Making the bend without kinking the tubing might be a little tricky, but at the price of buying the unit, I would figure out a way. Also seems wraping it in insulation would be beneficial, making it more efficient. Just some thoughts.

glennjanie 01-19-2008 07:00 PM

That 'Drain Water Heat Recovery' sounds like using some waste heat for replenishing but I see too much possibility of cross connection, which polutes the fresh water with the waste water. I can't see our state plumbing code allowing this type of hook-up. A pipe in a pipe presents too much risk of 'wear-through' from expansion and contraction.

We have had our Prius since December 6, 2005 and are still proud of it.It is paid for now too! I saw Toyota's site today talking about an advanced Prius with double batteries, half the weight, and double the mileage. It can be plugged in and will not use any motor fuel for the first 100 miles; some folks can get to work and back on that. The body uses a lot of the carbon fiber content for less weight and more strength.
But then, Janie and I are Toyota fanatics and believe almost anything they say. We have run 2 Camrys for over 250,000 miles and have owned several others too. Plus, I have a nephew in R&D at the Toyota plant in Georgetown, KY so we get some inside info from him.

travelover 01-20-2008 10:20 AM

I'm skeptical that recovering heat from grey water is worth the effort. I know what my gas bills are in summer, so I know my water heating costs- small. Considering this would only recover a small fraction of that heat, it doesn't seem cost effective.

I have seen grey water reused for watering landscape and that seems easier and more useful, especially in drier areas of the country.

glennjanie 01-23-2008 11:44 AM

Hello Educator:
Copper comes several different ways: soft (in a coil), hard copper which comes in straight lengths, classified as K, L, M and DWV. The Drain Waste and Vent copper is the thinnest grade, obviously it doesn't carry pressure. The other 3 types all have the same outside dimensions but the grades are thicker or thinner. L is the most used grade of copper for water lines and comes in both coil and straight lengths. L is also the type used for HVAC-R, the only difference is the tube has been evacuated and capped to prevent oxidation inside.
Kentucky's Plumbing Department is deadly serious about cross-connections, back flow and back pressure. It is so important to us that I used to give my students the day off if they could quote (word for word) the definition of cross-connection. One of them really worked at it; he even quoted it backward without missing a word.
In the case of the DWHR one of the lines is already violated (the drain) and the supply line may not always have pressure on it; thus the possibility of backflow.

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