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10-07-2010, 11:44 AM
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Seattle/Lynnwood, Washington
Posts: 33
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts Likes Given: 2
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My tank is being rigged into a timer that furnaces use. (it's electric, but gas should do that as well) Just figure how often you need the water and what time of day then program it to come on a couple hours before that.
I'm putting one of those mini tanks for the sink in the kitchen (220 volt is more efficient than 110 because the other "half" of the sine wave is wasted since the meter reads the flow down either leg as both sides being used, which is why you want a "balanced" fuse box )
This will cut down on the energy used as well as amount of water (it won't have to run 15 minutes just to get warmed up enough for a sink of dishes)
If you don't have one already, invest is a check valve for your water tank inlet. It will keep the hot water from flowing back out of the tank when the cold tap is turned on (due to pressure drop) and also insulate it from transferring heat to the cold water in the pipe (the flap is usually rubber)
I've been thinking about adding an iPhone app so that I can turn the hot water on or off for like a couple days when I go somewhere, or turn it on at my cabin (once I get the well, septic, electric, plumbing, etc done) before I go out there.
Also for the Luddites in the family, I can rig up an "easy" button to push and turn the tank on manually as the cabin tank will be on LPG with low voltage control (I already have simple LED lights running off a truck battery and small solar panel)
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10-07-2010, 01:31 PM
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on permanent vacation
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: La Verne, CA
Posts: 174
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
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My recommendation is if you want to go green, check out the latest tankless water heaters. I installed mine last December and so far this year, my natural gas bill has been reduced 40%. I have a recirc system, with a timer, so I have hot water on demand both in the AM when I take my shower, and in the PM when I wash up before jumping into bed. The entire system cost $1500, but with the 30% tax rebate, along with the savings of $22 per month on my natural gas bill, it's getting cheaper to run than a conventional tanked water heater. It also mounts tightly to the wall, takes much less space, and is 95% energy return.
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10-07-2010, 02:06 PM
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 506
Liked 11 Times on 10 Posts Likes Given: 14
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In the cooler months, the heat is really not lost because it reduces the heating load on a furnace minutely. Even in a cooling mode, pulling down a shade would do more good that cutting the temperature down on a tank since it may not cool off enough to come on before you turn it back up.
Our gas for hot water (inefficient model) is less than the monthly connection charge and taxes required, so I don't really worry, but if I want to feel really "GREEN", I could turn it down when I go to the store and them think I am accomplishing something even if it is a waste of time.
Dick
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10-22-2010, 04:40 AM
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Lake Wales, Fl.
Posts: 94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jammydoug
Hi
Our water heater flooded our garage. I am assuming it needs replacing. I shut off the water to the house and the pilot on the water heater, but how do I shut off the water going to the water heater? What is the typical cost to replace a water heater?
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First of all find out where the water is coming from, a loose joint perhaps?
There will be a valve under the heater to turn the water off.
Then consider if you can repair it by tightening the joint, or by replacing the part or parts.
Only if it is beyond repair, buy a new one.
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10-22-2010, 07:15 AM
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Certified Lunatic
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Olde Tyme, Connecticut
Posts: 887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry525
First of all find out where the water is coming from, a loose joint perhaps?
There will be a valve under the heater to turn the water off.
Then consider if you can repair it by tightening the joint, or by replacing the part or parts.
Only if it is beyond repair, buy a new one.
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Perry considering where Jammydoug is from and that he is just here to drop a spam link. I wouldn't worry to much about a water heater as we know it...
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01-26-2012, 07:08 PM
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 26
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I've always heard no, because it wastes energy having to bump itself back up or down to whatever you would have it when you were in the house.
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01-26-2012, 09:53 PM
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Houghton Lake, Mi.
Posts: 435
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
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Every one here is talking about the heat loss through the insulation on the heater.
On your standard water heaters , you have a 3" tube going from the burner up through the
water heater to the stack, so the hotter the water the faster the air flow up through this tube. and that heat loss up the stack to the out side is a lot more then the loss through the insulation. So turn it down will slow down this heat loss. Paul
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02-02-2012, 02:16 AM
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Seattle/Lynnwood, Washington
Posts: 33
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts Likes Given: 2
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There is a bi-metal coil "flap" that can be fitted inside the "chimney" of the water heater pipe that opens at over 100 degrees then closes around 75 to keep heat in.
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02-02-2012, 03:44 PM
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Houghton Lake, Mi.
Posts: 435
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carnuck
There is a bi-metal coil "flap" that can be fitted inside the "chimney" of the water heater pipe that opens at over 100 degrees then closes around 75 to keep heat in.
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They are called a bi-metal stack damper. You have to watch where you use them. When the heater comes on it will take a min. for it to open and in that min. you will be dumping burned gas fumes in the area around the heater. I don't know if they still use them or not. Because the carbon monoxide tester we use in homes today are very sensitive, so it could set them off. Paul
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