DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Carpentry and Woodworking > 1930's Oak Door to long for frame





Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 02-17-2013, 07:21 AM  
mcotter11
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 2
Default 1930's Oak Door to long for frame

I just purchased 8 1930's (I think) solid oak interior doors to replace 1980's hollow slab ugly doors. The length I need to cut the oak doors to is 79.5, they are currently 83.5". The top rail of the oak doors are 4" and there are 3 panels. I would like to cut the top rail of the door instead of splitting the cut between the top and bottom rails since the mortise lockset hardware currently lines up with the existing frame (I would still need to move the hinges).

I need advise on how to properly cut down these doors to fit the frames.

My thought is too use a jig saw to remove the top rail (4") from the stiles, cut down the hinge and lock stile down to 79.5", remove the panel molding, then cut down the top panel to 75.5", and replace the top rail using gorilla glue. Advice?



__________________
mcotter11 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-17-2013, 09:38 AM  
averagejoemn
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 33
Default

Can't necessarily answer your question, but I'd be very carful about chip out as you cut. If you have a big enough table saw I'd use that instead of a jig saw, or a circular saw with a sharp blade.



__________________
averagejoemn is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-17-2013, 10:34 AM  
kok328
Supporting Member
HRT_SUPPORTER.png
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Grand Blanc, MI
Posts: 2,081
Liked 71 Times on 66 Posts
Likes Given: 50

Default

Put masking tape along the line where you want to cut. Mark the line on the masking tape. Use a circular saw setup with clamped down guide to keep your cut straight (remember, your saw blade is 1/8" thick so stay on the "throw away" side of the line). Use "wood glue" & finish nails glue to reassemble any pieces. However, the numbers don't add up and the door would not look right when your done. Hindsight; do the math purchasing.

__________________
kok328 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-17-2013, 12:25 PM  
poppa
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 17
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Default

Yes. Removing the top rail can be done in order to cut the panel down but you will be cutting the tenon tongue that helps the side rails hold the top rail. When reinstalling the top rail I would use biscuit joinery and remember to clean out groove for panel but no glue in panel grooves. They have to move freely or they'll crack.

__________________
poppa is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-17-2013, 05:09 PM  
kok328
Supporting Member
HRT_SUPPORTER.png
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Grand Blanc, MI
Posts: 2,081
Liked 71 Times on 66 Posts
Likes Given: 50

Default

Good catch poppa. I didn't realize the OP was going to reduce the top panel size by 4". I'm thinking that this would look even more odd.
Good point on not using glue on the panel as these need to float for expansion/contraction (unlike fabricated one piece panel doors).

__________________
kok328 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-17-2013, 10:11 PM  
nealtw
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 7,719
Liked 541 Times on 490 Posts
Likes Given: 998

Default

I would look at change the frame and making the hole bigger to take them full size.

__________________
nealtw is online now  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-18-2013, 03:32 AM  
elbo
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: , florida
Posts: 62
Liked 17 Times on 17 Posts
Likes Given: 14

Default

For appearance, I would cut off ,equally, from the top and bottom, use the cutoff pieces to fill the old mortises , paying attention to the grain. then relocate the lock hardware. To avoid chip out, in addition to a sharp saw blade, straight edge, etc, make a 1/16" cut on the side that the blade exits the wood (with a circular saw, that would be the top surface ) this will shear the surface and prevent chipout when you make the full depth cut

__________________
elbo is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-18-2013, 10:49 AM  
poppa
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 17
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Default

Hate to be contrarian here but I have found that all removal should be from the top so as to not have the lock being placed placed at proper height and location on the door.

__________________
poppa is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-18-2013, 01:45 PM  
mcotter11
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 2
Default

Sorry, I may have confused some here. I am only cutting OFF the top rail, cutting down the stiles and top panel, then reattaching the top rail as is (4"). I have some good suggestions I will try this week. thanks



__________________
mcotter11 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter DIY Home Repair Forum Replies Last Post
Door frame question Underdog Carpentry and Woodworking 3 02-26-2013 04:07 AM
Installing door without frame? squirreloso Windows and Doors 11 10-09-2012 07:34 AM
the big dead tree next door (kinda long) Philphine General Home Improvement Discussion 11 06-30-2010 01:18 PM
Door frame separation sworth4937 Framing and Foundation 1 08-15-2009 01:35 PM
Door frame split (because of hydraulic door closer) help! w@ntonsoup Carpentry and Woodworking 3 09-17-2008 09:08 PM