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cibula11 04-06-2009 08:55 AM

Barnwood table support
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I've got a project that I've received several bits of advice. I have some 100 yr. old 2x8 lumber that I will be using to construct a rustic/modern kitchen table. I know that I need to make sure I have the edges nice and square so that I can glue and clamp the edges together (the width will be somewhere around 30").

1.) I've been told I won't need dowels or biscuits because it won't add strength, which is fine, but the legs I'm using are "U" shaped and will only be supporting the outer two boards. Is that correct?

2.)Do I need a cross piece to run perpendicular underneath the table top. Or do I just assume to glue and clamping process will be sturdy enough? I know that the top is going to be bulky but I don't want an apron. The table will look similar to this....actually pretty identical, same legs an

Quattro 04-06-2009 10:53 AM

Properly glued and clamped pieces are very strong, but I wouldn't build it without perpendicular support. Why not add something that goes across the bottom of the table where the legs attach? Or, flip the legs over so the horizontal part is in contact with the bottom of the table?

cibula11 04-06-2009 12:13 PM

That's an idea. Thanks. Do you think I'd be safe with just two perpendicular supports (one where the legs are) or would I need more than that?

I've thought about a steel "L" rod that would attach and not be too low (I just don't want to see it from above), but do I need something more solid than an "L" shaped steel piece or flat piece? I'd like to stay away from an apron if I could. I like the idea of flipping the legs though.

inspectorD 04-06-2009 01:59 PM

The table you showed, could the legs be a box of metal?
Meaning you build a square set, attach the top with bolts and still see the bottom.
You may need some additional full angle support at the top edge.
Hope this helps.

I have had a local guy fabricate a set of legs I drew up for a job. It worked out to be 200 bucks painted.:D

cibula11 04-06-2009 02:11 PM

The legs are actually from IKEA. I have those bought. I'm now looking for way to add the cross bracing and something that doesn't show too low. I'm guessing I could find some angle iron with holes drilled in it and attach that to the table and legs.

inspectorD 04-07-2009 05:32 AM

Sounds good
Sure, sounds like a plan. Don't forget, if it does not can always try again with a little more support.:)

Quattro 04-07-2009 07:25 AM

I would think a few pieces of 1/4" angle iron (the "L" shaped steel you are describing) would work just fine. Fasten to the underside of the table with short fat wood screws so you don't see any thing from the top. And you wouldn't have to go edge to edge with the steel it wouldn't be noticeable from the side of the table while standing or sitting. Just be sure to take off any sharp edges with a grinder first! Nothing like getting stuck in the knee while pulling your chair in...

cibula11 04-07-2009 02:14 PM

Is titebond the way to go for glue, or is there something better?

What about clamping. Ratchet clamp, bar clamp, pipe clamp?

inspectorD 04-07-2009 06:13 PM

your on the right path. Tightbond is fine. I do recommend pipe clamps, it will not turn or warp as bad.
Have fun.:)

cibula11 04-08-2009 10:21 AM

Thanks for all your help. Do I just get some steel pipe with threaded ends that match the size of clamps (either 1/2 or 3/4")? I found some on EBAY for about $35, then I'll have to buy the pipe at HD or Lowes. Unless there is another option on buying pipe??

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