lslapshot

Guys - I had some foundation work done and the guy left the new foundation 1.5 inches shorter than the old foundation. I'm attaching a photo of my repair and wondering if its a good repair. I had to add a second sill plate and extend it to the end of the window where I put a verticle 2x8 to act as a king stud. The window fits snug and slides in and out pretty easy. If its good, I will screw it right into the block on the left and screw the 2x8 into the block on the right and the window to the 2x8.

Thanks for any input!

nealtw

I would have put 3/4" on each side. Just for nailing trim. No header?

CallMeVilla

My only concern is the lack of a lentil to act as a header. If you have structural above the window, your framing might sag in the future. If you choose to keep it this way, I would also want to see spray foam insulation . . . and do you have a window well with a weeping system?

lslapshot

There is no room to fit a header around the window. Right above the basement window is a window that has a header that lands on the foundation and is taking all of the structural weight. Maybe I should have had the old block on the right notched out to allow the sill to extend all the way across the window? The original set up for the balloon structure was a single 2x8 sill with two 2x4s. I had to add the 2nd 2x8 to take up the space where the mason was short 1.5 inches.

nealtw

Just a few thought; In new construction we make the hole at least 10" wider to give 5" on each side for some insulation between cold concrete and the window. Given that you have to support the header in the wall above I would do it just as you did but I would have used treated lumber around the window as water in this area is going to be almost garanteed. Cold migrating from the brick will cause condensation inside the window and between the wall and the window frame. Over time what ever you do to rain proof this will break down and leak.
Our new code call for what they call Rain Screening which you can google. They expect all windows to get wet and give it a path to get out.

joecaption

Is that a wooden window? Looks like peeling paint on the bottom of it. If it is I would have replaced it with one that would have met egress code.
I also would have trimed it so it was centered so you could add some form of trim over the window frame to block area to seal out air.
PVC lumber works best.

lslapshot

Its not a wooden window...thats tar from the driveway. What side lentil would be appropriate for this application? I looked at all the other windows in the basement and they are all set up the same way with a 2x8 sill resting on the foundation and the floor joists sitting on sill (some directly above the window) If I were to put a piece of steel across the window how thick and how far beyond the window?

nealtw

If your upper windows line up with the basement windows, the only load your dealing with is the floor, if the joist are landing above this window you could install hangers to hang the floor joists from the rim board.

lslapshot

The wood around the window is PT. The second, third and fourth sill arent. It's balloon construction so the floor joists dont have the ability to be hung from anything. The way it sits there is the 2x8 bottom sill and 2 2x4's that the wall studs sit on and the floor joists butt up against the 2x4's. I was told I should go with a lentil. Just dont know how thick or how long. I was also told my repair would catch the eye of an inspector because it's not square and the window being put to one side will cause some issues.

nealtw

We would have two inspections, one for structure and your window would be fine, the sheeting would fail but our inspection calls for the window to be installed with one foot of house wrap around the window and a flashing install above it, so he wouldn't see what you have.
Bridgeman should be along, he will be able to help you with the span table for the lentil.