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TaskBoy · 05-23-2008, 10:14 PM

Do I miter (eek!) or cope them like when I do base? Thanks.

EDIT: I was suffering extreme frustration with my first crown attempt today. I just realized that I was cutting OUTSIDE miters for my INSIDE corner copes. I mean, hey, the outside cuts slant back to overlap the moulding it's fitting to, right? In appearance yeah, but the curves of the moulding won't be accurately angled/displayed for back-cutting. No wonder my back-cut curves wouldn't fit.

So, I will try INSIDE miters for my INSIDE copes' back-cutting. I bet they will match up just fine now. I hope someone learns from my goof. I'll post results.

Big Al · 05-24-2008, 07:27 PM

Miterings not bad. Upside down and backwards. Start with practice pieces and experiment.

glennjanie · 05-24-2008, 07:34 PM

Hey Taskboy:
I prefer to cope inside corners because they are not always 'square' and when I cope with an undercut, the sharp edge presses in for a tight fit every time. I also like to cut my trim just a fuzz long so that it can spring in and hold itself.
Glenn

Daryl in Nanoose · 05-25-2008, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glennjanie

Hey Taskboy:
I prefer to cope inside corners because they are not always 'square' and when I cope with an undercut, the sharp edge presses in for a tight fit every time. I also like to cut my trim just a fuzz long so that it can spring in and hold itself.
Glenn

Also glue all corners togeather.

shan2themax · 05-25-2008, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TaskBoy

Do I miter (eek!) or cope them like when I do base? Thanks.

this has my curiosity peaked since this will be one of my 130950175 projects... what is cope?

TaskBoy · 05-25-2008, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shan2themax

this has my curiosity peaked since this will be one of my 130950175 projects... what is cope?

This I can answer, lol. Instead of two 45* ends meeting together, one piece is cut square ended to butt to the corner of the space and the other is cut to the curves or shape of the other piece so it overlaps the other w/o gaps. Make sense?

Once I trace the curves from the molding onto the other piece it's meeting, I use a coping saw and an electric sander to remove the mat'l I don't need. I've only done this on base molding so far with great results.

shan2themax · 05-25-2008, 12:49 PM

That makes alot of sense... so if you had a simple molding this would look great!!!!! intricate would be alot harder.... I cant wait to see the results!!!!!

Daryl in Nanoose · 05-25-2008, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TaskBoy

This I can answer, lol. Instead of two 45* ends meeting together, one piece is cut square ended to butt to the corner of the space and the other is cut to the curves or shape of the other piece so it overlaps the other w/o gaps. Make sense?

Once I trace the curves from the molding onto the other piece it's meeting, I use a coping saw and an electric sander to remove the mat'l I don't need. I've only done this on base molding so far with great results.

If you miter the piece to be coped and then just follow the cut where it meats the profile with a back angle you will save yourself some time.

TaskBoy · 06-25-2008, 01:44 AM

Per my edit...VICTORY today! I was cutting outside miter--doh! I banged the rest of the job out in a couple hours.