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beitasitmay · 03-05-2007, 05:32 AM

im trying to put wood strips up against concrete walls to then attach sheet rock to them. is there a certain wood i should use, and how do i attach to the contcrete. is there a concrete nail i can hammer in. certainly my cordless with a screw wont work, and i dont think my nail gun will work that i use for baseboards.

Kerrylib · 03-05-2007, 09:04 AM

Be sure to use treated wood.

A powder actuated driver is usually the simplest way to go. And sometimes the most fun

assuming you like big bangs. Make sure you have good ear protection as well as a face protection.

However you can also get concrete lag screws. You'll have to get a masonry bit to pre-drill the holes for these. If you have more than about 3-4 you will be ready to burn up your drill, so a rotary hammer rental may be warranted if you take that route.

glennjanie · 03-05-2007, 01:02 PM

I vote for the concrete lag screws installed with the rotary hammer. I think the cost would be less and the rental places are not supposed to allow you the powder actuated tool without you having a certification. I also agree with the treated wood and I recommend you use 2 X 4s.
Glenn

Kerrylib · 03-05-2007, 02:23 PM

Glenn,

I did not know about rental places having to require a certification. When I put up a couple walls in my basement, I bought a basic powder tool for less than what renting one would have cost. (~$25 for the hammer actuated "gun" and another $10 for the charges) Compared to renting a rotary hammer cost is probably comparable.

I'm sure there are many arguments for and against both methods. Which ever way you go, use plenty of common sense. There are many ways you can hurt yourself with either type of tool.

CraigFL · 03-05-2007, 02:53 PM

Do you have true concrete poured walls or block?

beitasitmay · 03-05-2007, 07:29 PM

I have used the guns requiring a 22 caliber bullet to attach. farming and hunting most of my life i cant believe more people dont get a bullet in the face from this. the bullets get twisted in the chamber easily, and PS i dont feel that way about my 12 guage remington shotgun. i just cant justify the bullet theory. too many jams. not enough accuracy.....

I was trying to remove an old boarded up window a couple days ago. It was nailed into concrete like big time. a big fat head nail like from the 1800s. looked like a nail from a 1832 barn that had been there for a while. that bastard stuck in the wall for sure. i want that/////im sure they didnt shoot the nails in the wall in 1832.
A HAMMER MAYBE WITH THE RIGHT NAIL.....

Snoonyb · 03-06-2007, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beitasitmay

farming and hunting most of my life i cant believe more people dont get a bullet in the face from this. the bullets get twisted in the chamber easily,

I've used powder actuated tools for 30 years and have yet to experience a jamb or misfire from a properly maintained tool.

And they are called "pins".

Quote:

looked like a nail from a 1832 barn that had been there for a
while.

When nails were used in that era they were generally square and tapered.

However, to your original question.
Keep in mind the length of the fasteners you are intending to use to attach the new wall covering and attach the furring strips with "tapcons", which by the way, come with a masonry bit.

Square Eye · 03-06-2007, 06:55 AM

Modern hardened masonry nails are still available matching your description of square edged 1800s looking nails.
These masonry nails can be used, but Tap-cons are far superior and typically easier to use, with far less surface chipping, and less blow out on the back side, when the fastener penetrates all the way through. Which is a problem when attaching to block. Another advantage is that the fastening is more controled with less bouncing around from the banging, trying to get the masonry nails started.

**asbestos** · 03-06-2007, 11:59 AM

well my 2 cents is that for concrete, not block, masonry nails in the right size holes hold pretty darn well. get the board in place then just roto-hammer through it and pound the nail (eyeprotction eyeprotction eyeprotction) and away you go. I think lag screws may be overkill. as far as tapcons® I may be a clutz with these but I tried to use then a few weeks ago for a door sill I used a new bit of the size recommended and the screw just chewed up the concrete and never got a real bite. I tried 3 or 4 and got disgusted and went with rawl pins (the things with the offset in the end.)
I have also used nail ins, a.k.a. zamacs, pin drive anchors. and they seem to work quite well.
There is a whole problem in naming these things also one persons hilti bolt is someone else's wedge bolt and one persons rawl pin is anothers zigzag.

AndyD5 · 03-30-2007, 12:16 PM

on the floor I would use bolt anchors can't think of the brand name but the box is red an they work by drilling a sized hole then insert them and turn the head the bolt turns and the part covering pushes out and grabs the concrete the tapcons are okay in my opinion I had same problem as asbestos with them just chewing up the hole not grabbing. and if it is block not concrete the seams are weak around here you can push anything through them that's where we feed new cable wires in old houses.