replacing exterior wood siding
 

Hello Guys!

Question: What is the correct way...dos or don't in replacing patching or replacing old siding (1x10 cove redwood).

I have heard from a pro that the finger jointed stuff in some cases may have issues.

Its a 1920s house with some of the siding dry rot...

I understand that you shoud preferably start and begin at a vertical stud. However if that is not possible...how do you attach/join the new siding with the old (where there is no vertical stud that they meet)?

Leaking...i assume their should be tar paper under the siding...and patches of paper should be stapled if need where the old wood is replace???

Since the house is old...is better to use galvanized screws rather than nails...as the studs/ framing wood is old?

Thanks Starrider

While you have the siding off, cut a piece of plywood to fit just a little loose between the studs and about 2 to 3 times the height of the patch. You can hold the plywood in place with a screw that is not tightened all of the way down. A claw hammer is a great handle in this situation. Slip the claws under the screw and you wil be able to hold the plywood against the siding while you screw it in place.
Use the galvanized screws to attach the plywood to the surrounding siding, then screw the patch to the plywood. Predrilling the siding for the screws will help prevent splitting. Stainless or ceramic coated screws may be a better choice for the screws that are exposed.
Tar paper under the patch will help.

Thanks Square Eyes!!!...2-3 times vertically...so if the plank is 10 in. wide...does that mean the plywood should extend 2-3 planks below and above?

Thanks again

Starrider

No.
Just up one and down one. (3 times)

Maybe up 1/2 and down 1/2. (2 times)

Make it kind of small, if moisture gets behind it, the smaller patch will not make as big a mess.

psst,, don't be repeating all of my secrets.;)

Square eyes...well that a terrific one...and i have lots of left over plywood from sheering the lower garage studs for earth quake along with foundationg bolting.....

That's what i always look for...guys that know what they are doing...thanks!

Starrider

If you've got the plywood, then it's a cheap fix.
Everybody loves a cheap fix!
Glad I could help.

Tom

Update...i went down and picked up about 4 sixteen foot solid redwood cove planks...asked the lumber guy to get me the choice pieces. Now we will prime it with an oil base primer...then a coat of latex (kellymore) that is matched to the color of the house...This way i figure the house won't look so bad with patches of primer painted spots...while i find the painter to the whole wall properly...

Btw...they are rated 1x10 cove redwood siding...however the one sure looks like 1/2 inch...the lumber guy say...yep that's how it is...

Another question: galvanize screws...Is two inches too long or is 1.5 inches enough for length of screw...

Also what precautions should be taken not to hit any electrical or water pipes if any?

Thanks in advance... the contractor or his guy is suppose to come out and do the job...just want to be informed enough so as no wrong shortcuts are taken...

Thanks in advance...Starrider

1 1/2" screws are barely adequate. 2" are good. Before the patch goes on, before the cut is made, set the saw only as deep as it needs to be to cut through the siding.After the cut is made, look for wire and waterline, gas, etc. Mark these on the face of the surrounding siding, you're going to paint it anyway. If the walls have plywood or diagonal T&G behind the siding, check it for rot or mold. I've seen houses with and without. This would solve your end joint support problem for the patches if the underlying wood is in good shape.

If you countersink the screwheads into the wood and fill over them with a caulking, the galvanized screws will be well protected.

If the siding is not as thick as what you have on the house now, you will be able to see the joints from a mile away. You may be able to build up the back with folded tar paper, or you may have to shim it out.

I thought you were doing this?

Thanks Square Eyes again! You are a good teacher...Since the original termmite guys missed this prior to buying the house...they have agreed to do the job for a minimal cost..."thought i was doing this"...well i will probably will help do it...and armed with your info ...it will be done right!

For example...the service writer...said nails would be adequate...when i asked whether screws should be used...

If this was just on the ground level...i know i could do it...from what you have taught me...however these planks are on the third story...and on a extention ladder three stories up...we'll let the other guy do it...lol!

Thanks a bunch! Starrider

Hi Guys...update

Well...finally got about 36 feet of old plank changed out. The planks are redwood cove...ship lap 10x1. I went down to the lumber yard and picked out good solid pieces and oil primed base with kelly more exterior latex ...painted the boards before the install.

Question...although i had the guy staple tar paper where each section was replace...is it good to have the boards caulked along the horizontal edges where they overlap the each other...this was not done...just caulked and painted where the cuts were made and join with the old planks...

Its is a three story house or wall...and so far i have painted up to second floor window ledge...lol...need a taller ladder...as i only have a 16 foot one. Oh and i got the three planks down from the top from the roof and reaching over and painting with a brush...I don't really want to buy a 32 foot ladder...thinkng of using a roller on a 10 foot pole...and rolling the paint on the remaining areas...only if the area doesn't need a sanding and prep work... Your advice apreciated!

Thanks Starrider...