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Old 01-31-2014, 05:22 AM  
bud16415
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You might want to experiment just a little with a sanding sealer also. Some woods will absorb stain at a very uneven rate across the piece. Plywood’s will do this. The sealer fills the pours and will make the stain go on more even. Just something to think about.



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Old 02-01-2014, 08:21 AM  
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Is that the same as pre-stain conditioner? I test that on a piece and it seems to really help life the fibers for one lady sanding.


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Old 02-05-2014, 04:56 PM  
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Ok so I am about to take my chainsaw to the bookcase I just built!!!
All went well with the stain and most of the poly. However today the second coat of poly on the inside of a couple of shelves dried to a white tint. Does that mean I put too much on it? What are my options? Here are a couple of pictures of the rest of the bookcase. imageuploadedbyhome-repair1391644522.471335.jpgimageuploadedbyhome-repair1391644566.059328.jpg


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Old 02-05-2014, 05:16 PM  
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Give it a couple days, it might just clear up as it cures out. No chain saw yet.

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Old 02-05-2014, 06:14 PM  
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I sure hope so. I will give it a couple of days. If it does not clear up is my only option to sand those places and reapply urethane?

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Old 02-06-2014, 05:13 AM  
bud16415
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I started a thread a couple months ago when I did my first floor floors. It was a nightmare and you might want to read thru that thread. After that I learned a trick that sometimes helps and if you do it within a day or two I’m told it works. That is to heat the area with something like a hair dryer I don’t know if a heat gun would be too hot or if you uses one to try it don’t get to close to the surface to burn the poly. In my case the first coat went on perfect as it had bare wood below and could outgas both ways. The more coats the bigger the problem and for me it was I applied it with a roller and the white was trapped air. You will be fine if the heat doesn’t work just sanding those areas and they will look white after sanding and then putting poly on will clear right up. I ended up spot sanding a huge amount of my floor.

http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f107/...e-asked-16565/

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Old 02-06-2014, 10:00 AM  
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Excellent thanks Bud. If I have to sNd would you go with 150 then 220 pr direct to 220?


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Old 02-06-2014, 10:31 AM  
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I would always step up thru the papers. I think you can get there both ways but less elbow grease and less paper doing the steps. I have a little B&D mouse sander and I’m in love with that thing. Try the grit on some of your samples first if you want to get a feel for how they will cut.

By the way it looks really nice.

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Old 02-06-2014, 11:22 AM  
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Thanks Bud. I too love my mouse. It's great for corners. Will let you know how I do.

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Old 02-06-2014, 04:38 PM  
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Ok well I did what I could do by sanding the hazy spots. It worked to a level of satisfaction not excitement. I am just going to leave it as it is now. It looks fine. In looking back I think I now know what I did. The hazy spots were all in or around the corners. That is where the shelves meet the walls of the bookcase. I used a brush for the entire outside and it worked perfectly. For some reason I decided that a foam brush might be easier for the inside. Well I think I loaded the foam brush up too much and out too much on. The corners are hard to get. I promise I will never use a foam brush again. I have much better luck with real brushes.

Thanks for your help. Bookcase done on to next project.


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