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-   -   Bad honeywell valve? (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/bad-honeywell-valve-1732/)

berg 01-11-2009 10:25 AM

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruz1111 View Post
Well I say I had the same issue you all have had, I pulled it apart, dropped solder on all 4 spots and up and rolling, I wonder if ruftags, your Maint guy only dropped solder on the 1 spot not all 4 as I saw for sure one that looked broken, but figured I might as well solder all 4 since I have it out ! I have picts if anyone ever has a need to see what can be done, as we got a quote for $420 to repair this thing, and it cost $85 to tell us the gas valve unit was the issue, and I watched the repair guy mess with this connector so I soon figured out that this was the issue, then did search and found you all, as I thought it might be the ignitor from the get go, so the $85 was worth getting the trouble shooting part done. time took about 30min to do including heating up a hot pocket to eat as I was starving..haha.. replacing the entire valve I hear is a pain to un wrench it from the pipes etc so I think this was better, also a note honeywell issued a new part sv9501M-2682 so it seams to me they knew sv9500m-2682 was an issue, so don't buy the 9500 or you will be back to the same game. either fix the 9500 or buy the new 9501 part ! In the picts you can see they are updated on the 9501 for sure.
I have a 9502H-1792 smart valve which does the same thing,,,,
The 4 pin contact will only work for a time. I watched the smart valve vibrate as the fan and induction blower comes on. The valve is sort of hanging out there vibrating so I positioned as small piece of conduit down thru the burner tray up to the valve making it more rigid. I think the vibration was adding to the 4 pin losing contact after a while...So far so good...another solution might be to go ridid pipe all the way instead of the flex...anyway just my observation on part of the solution.
I'd like to see the pics bruz1111 can you post or want to e-mail them to me?
k.dahlberg@comcast.net


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