DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > Appliances > HVAC > Bad honeywell valve?




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Old 06-14-2008, 06:26 PM  
geo fan
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Default pressure switch

this can be one that will leave a pro scratching his head connected to the inducer fan moter and sometime a second hose to the heat exchanger will be some rubber hoses hooked to barb fitting disconnect from the motor and heat exchanger depending which one the other end will be connected to a 2 inch round pressure switch blow into or suck on the hose going to the switch if you hear a quite click its ok just make sure nothing is lodged in the barbs by sticking a staightened out paper clip in that should be it



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Old 12-22-2008, 04:25 AM  
KSabol3868
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I'm Having the Same problem except the red light indicates the pressure valve is stuck open. Any ideas



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Old 01-02-2009, 05:30 PM  
bruz1111
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Well I say I had the same issue you all have had, I pulled it apart, dropped solder on all 4 spots and up and rolling, I wonder if ruftags, your Maint guy only dropped solder on the 1 spot not all 4 as I saw for sure one that looked broken, but figured I might as well solder all 4 since I have it out ! I have picts if anyone ever has a need to see what can be done, as we got a quote for $420 to repair this thing, and it cost $85 to tell us the gas valve unit was the issue, and I watched the repair guy mess with this connector so I soon figured out that this was the issue, then did search and found you all, as I thought it might be the ignitor from the get go, so the $85 was worth getting the trouble shooting part done. time took about 30min to do including heating up a hot pocket to eat as I was starving..haha.. replacing the entire valve I hear is a pain to un wrench it from the pipes etc so I think this was better, also a note honeywell issued a new part sv9501M-2682 so it seams to me they knew sv9500m-2682 was an issue, so don't buy the 9500 or you will be back to the same game. either fix the 9500 or buy the new 9501 part ! In the picts you can see they are updated on the 9501 for sure.

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Old 01-11-2009, 10:25 AM  
berg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruz1111 View Post
Well I say I had the same issue you all have had, I pulled it apart, dropped solder on all 4 spots and up and rolling, I wonder if ruftags, your Maint guy only dropped solder on the 1 spot not all 4 as I saw for sure one that looked broken, but figured I might as well solder all 4 since I have it out ! I have picts if anyone ever has a need to see what can be done, as we got a quote for $420 to repair this thing, and it cost $85 to tell us the gas valve unit was the issue, and I watched the repair guy mess with this connector so I soon figured out that this was the issue, then did search and found you all, as I thought it might be the ignitor from the get go, so the $85 was worth getting the trouble shooting part done. time took about 30min to do including heating up a hot pocket to eat as I was starving..haha.. replacing the entire valve I hear is a pain to un wrench it from the pipes etc so I think this was better, also a note honeywell issued a new part sv9501M-2682 so it seams to me they knew sv9500m-2682 was an issue, so don't buy the 9500 or you will be back to the same game. either fix the 9500 or buy the new 9501 part ! In the picts you can see they are updated on the 9501 for sure.
I have a 9502H-1792 smart valve which does the same thing,,,,
The 4 pin contact will only work for a time. I watched the smart valve vibrate as the fan and induction blower comes on. The valve is sort of hanging out there vibrating so I positioned as small piece of conduit down thru the burner tray up to the valve making it more rigid. I think the vibration was adding to the 4 pin losing contact after a while...So far so good...another solution might be to go ridid pipe all the way instead of the flex...anyway just my observation on part of the solution.
I'd like to see the pics bruz1111 can you post or want to e-mail them to me?
k.dahlberg@comcast.net
furnace1.jpg  
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Old 01-25-2009, 10:42 AM  
brainchild
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Does the gas need to be shut off before accessing the valve housing?

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Old 01-25-2009, 09:19 PM  
JimD
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I am having a problem with an Armstrong furnace with a Honeywell smart gas valve Sv9501M-2682 The Pilot light is working or lit but when the thermostat callsm for gas nothing happens,I've cleared the induction tube for debris looks ok,after spending $130 for aservice call,he,cleaned sensor at pilot light,the same thing happened the next day,I've found that if you turn thermostat down so it isn't calling for heat and leave off for 30min. turn themostat back up,pilot lite fires up and the burners fire up also and everything works for while,then have to repeat process.Does Honeywell have arecall on these" smart" valves.

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Old 01-27-2009, 01:10 PM  
Skyking
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Default Honeywell Gas Valve

After 2.5 years and 3 different professional Hvac service companies coming to my house, I now have the answer. I wish I would have stumbled over this website years ago. I would have saved time and money. The thing is everytime the "Professionals" were here it worked fine according to them. I have a Quatro Furnace/ Consolidated Ind/Honeywell gas valve SV9500M8600 This year I was finally able to narrow it down to the gas valve. The thing is everytime the "Professionals" were here it worked fine according to them.

I suspected a bad harness. When I moved the 4 pin connector the furnace would light off everytime. Gradually, all kinds of movement was necessary to get the furnace to light. Today, I was moving the igniter connector and the furnace lit off. Sounds like a gas valve.

I plan to call Honeywell as soon as I post this reply. Hope to return with some kind of answer.

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Old 02-11-2009, 08:52 PM  
portillos
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wow, incredible. Just started having this problem on my heil furnace with a honeywell valve and found this site. Right now I have a piece of plastic lodged in the side of the 4-pin connector to make the thing light. I'm going to open up the valve and re-solder the connections.

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Old 02-15-2009, 12:01 PM  
w geeslin
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My Tempstar furnace is about 14 years old. We've experienced problems with the solder connections on the control unit for the Honeywell SV9500 for years now. I fastened a tie wrap around the connector and the on/off knob and that worked for a long time. Now it has stopped working. Infuriating to know that the problem is only some fractured solder joints inside the plastic housing on the PCB. My question is this. How do you get the plastic housing off? I see two screws on top of the value that appear hold the entire plastic housing on..but they have secure type screws that would require some special tool to remove them. Any help on this issue available?

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Old 02-15-2009, 02:13 PM  
lidel651
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Those are likely torx TR screws or Torx Tamper Resistant. There are special Torx bits and screwdrivers that will remove them. As to exactly how or if that will remove the plastic housing, I don't know.



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