w geeslin

Well, the job is done and it cost me $1.50 for a T15 Torx Tamper Proof Bit to remove the two screws holding the platic cowling on. After we got the housing off, under illuminated magnifcation on the work bench I found a burned and fractured joint on the PCB where the relay coil gets power. I cleaned the joint with alcohol and then reflowed the solder...checked for any other bad joints..found none. Carefully reassembled the PCB to the housing and back onto the valve using the T15 Torx bit....restored power, turned up the thermostat and we were back in business. Wish I done this years ago...would have saved a lot of anxiety and cold nights as well.

dmwli

George, what was the build date on the gas valve? (Four 1/4" high numbers ink-stamped on the bottom edge of the main casting. First two are the year and the last two are week in that year.)

portillos

Well, I was able to bring a standard torx bit into work (where we have a model shop) and I had a guy burn a hole in the middle of the bit so that it would fit the screw on the valve housing. I didn't even bother checking hardware stores for the part; it looked too specialized.

Anyway I pulled the circuit board out and found 4 bad solder joints! 3 on the ignitor connector (probably at least partly from my habit of sticking something in there to get it to fire up) and one on a relay on the opposite end of the pcb. The broken connector joints had pulled the copper rings away from the board, so I had to cut & strip the wires, and hard-wire to an adjacent location on the pcb.

Put everything back together and it's been working for about 3 weeks now. btw, when the furnace fires up, now there is no loud "click." I think it must have been arcing inside from those intermittent connections. Glad I was able to save some serious money!

MikeInPDX

I've evidently got the same problem. I've got the cover off the valve, but I'm not sure how the PCB can be removed easily. It looks like it's attached to the solenoids below. How did you do it?

As an FYI, I just used some solvent to clean the contacts and the board (it was extremely dirty) and it seems to be working fine. At least for now. I noticed that the board is supposed to be coated, but the coating is really inconsistent. I'd still like to pull the board out and check the solder connections, but I'm not ready to cause a major gas leak trying to figure it out.

lgdatsme2

We just purchased this unit. It will not ignite. First problem is that it was rigged for LP gas. I am not certain what that entails. It would make sense to me if the gas volume were higher with the Propane, and the spark lower in density. If I have that backwards please enlighten me. Secondly if the conversion WAS made would I need to completely change out the entire structure from feeds to igniter. Need help would appreciate a post.

jeffjeep

Great thread guys and thanks to you all , my Keeprite furnace 12 years old would not stat up yesterday after coming home from work . Found these posts , pulled out board and dropped a little solder on the bad area and now shes back pumping out the BTU's . Wife and kids are warm again

Leddy

The PCB slides out of the housing once the cover is removed and the connections are unplugged. I just removed mine a few minutes ago. This is an awesome site.

shailupreti

Thanks man, this was amazing, in fact I'm riding in the same cab as everyone else. Would love to see the smart valve pics you have talked about. I would want to go for repairing it myself,,,,,please send them at shailupreti@gmail.com

rogden

I had to puzzle a bit to figure out how to remove the circuit board, too. On my SV9500 valve, the board itself does not slide out--the board and the remainder of the attached housing all slide out together. As I am facing the valve with the igniter knob towards me, I push the board and housing away from me toward the furnace. It should easily slide out of the metal supporting frame.

I couldn't find the tamper resistant T-15 torx screwdriver at Lowes or Home Depot or my local Ace Hardware, but AutoZone had a set of tamper resistant torx bits for $10.

When I pulled out my circuit board, it was obvious that the four solder connections for the igniter harness were cracked. What I didn't see right away was another failed solder at another spot on the board. Once I re-soldered that fifth one, the furnace lit up like a charm. Makes sense to check all the solder points and touch them up as necessary.

After 3 days of 55 degrees in the home, this warm air sure feels great! Thanks for the help!

rcashon

Great site and information:
I also have fought with my valve for over 2 years. I have soldered mine many times. Has anyone found a replacement board? Or has anyone just changed the valve out? If so , did you use the same type or a different valve. I would love to have a schematic on the valve.