Bad honeywell valve?

w geeslin · 02-20-2009, 12:30 PM

Well, the job is done and it cost me $1.50 for a T15 Torx Tamper Proof Bit to remove the two screws holding the platic cowling on. After we got the housing off, under illuminated magnifcation on the work bench I found a burned and fractured joint on the PCB where the relay coil gets power. I cleaned the joint with alcohol and then reflowed the solder...checked for any other bad joints..found none. Carefully reassembled the PCB to the housing and back onto the valve using the T15 Torx bit....restored power, turned up the thermostat and we were back in business. Wish I done this years ago...would have saved a lot of anxiety and cold nights as well.

dmwli · 02-21-2009, 08:51 AM

George, what was the build date on the gas valve? (Four 1/4" high numbers ink-stamped on the bottom edge of the main casting. First two are the year and the last two are week in that year.)

portillos · 03-07-2009, 05:33 PM

Well, I was able to bring a standard torx bit into work (where we have a model shop) and I had a guy burn a hole in the middle of the bit so that it would fit the screw on the valve housing. I didn't even bother checking hardware stores for the part; it looked too specialized.

Anyway I pulled the circuit board out and found 4 bad solder joints! 3 on the ignitor connector (probably at least partly from my habit of sticking something in there to get it to fire up) and one on a relay on the opposite end of the pcb. The broken connector joints had pulled the copper rings away from the board, so I had to cut & strip the wires, and hard-wire to an adjacent location on the pcb.

Put everything back together and it's been working for about 3 weeks now. btw, when the furnace fires up, now there is no loud "click." I think it must have been arcing inside from those intermittent connections. Glad I was able to save some serious money!

MikeInPDX · 04-10-2009, 11:35 AM

I've evidently got the same problem. I've got the cover off the valve, but I'm not sure how the PCB can be removed easily. It looks like it's attached to the solenoids below. How did you do it?

As an FYI, I just used some solvent to clean the contacts and the board (it was extremely dirty) and it seems to be working fine. At least for now. I noticed that the board is supposed to be coated, but the coating is really inconsistent. I'd still like to pull the board out and check the solder connections, but I'm not ready to cause a major gas leak trying to figure it out.

lgdatsme2 · 10-03-2009, 11:10 PM

We just purchased this unit. It will not ignite. First problem is that it was rigged for LP gas. I am not certain what that entails. It would make sense to me if the gas volume were higher with the Propane, and the spark lower in density. If I have that backwards please enlighten me. Secondly if the conversion WAS made would I need to completely change out the entire structure from feeds to igniter. Need help would appreciate a post.

jeffjeep · 10-24-2009, 11:12 AM

Great thread guys and thanks to you all , my Keeprite furnace 12 years old would not stat up yesterday after coming home from work . Found these posts , pulled out board and dropped a little solder on the bad area and now shes back pumping out the BTU's . Wife and kids are warm again

Leddy · 01-05-2010, 07:44 PM

The PCB slides out of the housing once the cover is removed and the connections are unplugged. I just removed mine a few minutes ago. This is an awesome site.