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stibbits · 10-27-2010, 02:06 PM

I have had the same problem on my Comfortmaker gas furnace. After re-soldering the bad connection on the board relay pin, the furnace works good. However, I am sure the problem will re-emerge at some point, but thanks to all who made this repair a possibility. I found a replacement valve on this website: https://keithspecialty.com/k/67-394.htm for $155. If anyone tries it please post your narrative here so I can see if I should replace my valve.

jimbo_97 · 11-06-2010, 05:02 PM

I too am having the same problem with my pilot not lighting. I tested the electrical wiring. I am getting the 24V into the gas valve and I am getting roughly 20V going out to my ignitor but the ignitor still will not fire up. Is it likely that I still have a problem with the circuit board even though I am getting voltage to the terminals?

lw39042 · 11-07-2010, 05:30 PM

I too have had problems with my SV9500M for about 3 years. The ignitor just would not heat. I first replaced the ignitor, that worked for a while. I then tied the wires, that worked for a while. I then solder connections on the PCB and that worked for a while. Well this year the wire ties just were not getting the job done. I could move the wires and it would start working but any movement and it quit again. I took the valve apart again and found that the pads for the solenoids were oxidized. You can only see them after removing the PCB assembly. I used a piece of scotch brite and I used a pair of forceps and scrubbed these pads. I also removed the pcb from the plastic housing and also cleaned the 4 fingers that are the contacts for the pads. Reassembled and it works EVERY time. When tying the wires, I was just moving the entire PCB assembly so that the finger contacts would make connection to the pads for the solenoids.

rcashon · 11-08-2010, 03:37 AM

jimbo and Iw, I figure you will both see your problems again. I have resoldered my board quite a bit and I finally got it working again. The solder connections and pads are very thin and pull off the main board with hairline cracks. I had to inspect all of them under magnifying glass to finally find the one that pulled up. It starts with the 4 pin connector in the middle of the board. I have wound up hard wire soldering from point to point to resolve some connections. jimbo on yours where you are getting the voltages I would still say you have a trace not making contact. That board was cheaply made. I tried contacting honeywell and they did respond, but always pushed me away to third party vendors to replace the valve. They know its bad but wont take responsibility for it. Oh well...

doninfosys · 11-21-2010, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bruz1111

Well I say I had the same issue you all have had, I pulled it apart, dropped solder on all 4 spots and up and rolling, I wonder if ruftags, your Maint guy only dropped solder on the 1 spot not all 4 as I saw for sure one that looked broken, but figured I might as well solder all 4 since I have it out ! I have picts if anyone ever has a need to see what can be done, as we got a quote for $420 to repair this thing, and it cost $85 to tell us the gas valve unit was the issue, and I watched the repair guy mess with this connector so I soon figured out that this was the issue, then did search and found you all, as I thought it might be the ignitor from the get go, so the $85 was worth getting the trouble shooting part done.

time took about 30min to do including heating up a hot pocket to eat as I was starving..haha.. replacing the entire valve I hear is a pain to un wrench it from the pipes etc so I think this was better, also a note honeywell issued a new part sv9501M-2682 so it seams to me they knew sv9500m-2682 was an issue, so don't buy the 9500 or you will be back to the same game. either fix the 9500 or buy the new 9501 part ! In the picts you can see they are updated on the 9501 for sure.

If anyone has the pictures of this Gas Valve, as referenced above, please
send them to don-mgmt5@sbcglobal.net

helpme · 11-23-2010, 03:07 PM

I had the same problem with my 9500M 2682 - igniter wouldnt work on a regular basis with out wiggling the wires. We took it apart and found a cracked solder joint at the relay connection on board. Soldered it up and works fine. Also cleaned contacts for the solinoid coils - they were a little loose so we bent them to make a tighter connection. So far so good!

ecasares · 11-30-2010, 10:06 PM

I replaced the ignitor but it still did not lit nor did gas come out. I removed the cover to the smart valve and looked at the circuit board and it had an obvious tiny discolored part and I assumed it was fried. I replaced the smart valve and everything lit up. Furnace turns on , everything works now except the inducer motor would not turn off. I measured the voltage coming from the control module located on the fan to the smart valve and it measured 28 Volts. I assume it should only read 24 volts on a 24 volt system. I guess i will replace the control module and go from there. Tempstar models are a pain. What a waste of money and time. Next time , i will go with Goodman or Payne.

SteelBlueNJ · 12-05-2010, 05:58 PM

First remove the wires where they plug into the unit , then uses a T-10 (tamper free Torx allen key) to remove the casing, then disconnect the ground coming from the board, it's on the left next to the gas pressure adjustment screw. I had to use my needle nose to pull the ground off.
Next you should be able to push or slide the board toward the furnace to get it free.

B]remove the circuit board from the casing[/B]

locate the shorts on the BACK of the board. you may need a magnifying piece to see the hair line fractures on the controller plug joints. The snap plug connection should have been made like the igniter plug connection, with screws fastening it to the board. This supports the solder joints from damage when servicing your furnace.
white arrow shows the snap plug solder joints that I had to re-solder. The yellow arrow is a solder joint I also had to touch up. I don't know what is was but it looked over heated.

sorry for the shabby pictures, was in a hurry to get my heat back on and used my phone for pictures. To solder this up i used the pen style soldering tool. It was 11 bucks at Auto Zone where I also found the tamper proof Torx bit set also about 10 bucks. Not bad considering the service schmucks wanted 800 to replace the entire valve! I googled the valve after they left loose screws, no new filter and bad feeling about their shotty service call. It was about $300 but located it for half that if I needed to replace the whole thing. Still where he came up with an $800 job is beond me. I had already paid a $75 service call charge and another $70 for them to vacume the rail out and tinker a bit. He ended up bending the piolet suply line and left loose screws and clip on the thermo cuppler. Riduclous if you ask me... for anyone who wants to get screwed, heres their link - A.A. Richards Heating & Cooling, LLC - 1-866-915-HEAT

Anyhow, clean up your board with circuit board cleaner and a q-tip if you like. I also cleaned the contacts on the coil and on the board where they meet. just don't use anything that's not going to dry up of cause a fire. common sense here

Tikoman · 01-04-2011, 10:57 PM

Thanks for all the great info, thats the same problem I had. There was six cracked conections. Took it to work and fixed it. They sure are hard to see.

SteelBlueNJ · 01-05-2011, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcashon

jimbo and Iw, I figure you will both see your problems again. I have resoldered my board quite a bit and I finally got it working again. The solder connections and pads are very thin and pull off the main board with hairline cracks. I had to inspect all of them under magnifying glass to finally find the one that pulled up. It starts with the 4 pin connector in the middle of the board. I have wound up hard wire soldering from point to point to resolve some connections. jimbo on yours where you are getting the voltages I would still say you have a trace not making contact. That board was cheaply made. I tried contacting honeywell and they did respond, but always pushed me away to third party vendors to replace the valve. They know its bad but wont take responsibility for it. Oh well...

Thank you