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Old 06-18-2013, 08:40 PM  
rstokes28
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Default Carrier HVAC - Fan not turning

Hi,
The fan on the outside unit, a Carrier 38EZA060310 Model, stopped turning yesterday. I took out the capacitor and got it tested and it was bad and replaced it. The unit worked fine for the afternoon while it was cooling the house. After it was off a while and came back on the fan wouldn't turn again. The compressor is coming on and we know the cap is good.
My guess is bad fan motor. Can you verify?

Thanks,

Rick



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Old 06-18-2013, 10:41 PM  
rstokes28
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In addition to fan not turning unless I help it a little, when the system is one it's taking a long time to cool. Could this be an issue where it's been losing Puron steadily and has been stressing the components?



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Old 06-19-2013, 07:00 AM  
Housedoctor57
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If the fan motor is turning at a reduced RPM this will affect the unit's cooling ability. Also clean the coils with coil cleaner or a 409/Simple Green product. Wash out with a powerful stream of water from the garden hose. Be sure to set the thermostat to OFF and disconnect the power to the outside unit before you begin.

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Old 06-19-2013, 09:32 AM  
rstokes28
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Thanks Housedoctor57. I'm assuming along with the cleaning that the fan motor also e replaced, just to be sure.

Best

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Old 06-19-2013, 09:36 AM  
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Yes, The fan should be replaced based on your description and the fact you exchanged the Cap already that helps with the start and run function of the motor. Good luck. Check your area for a Johnstone Supply location if you have trouble getting the part from another AC supply house.

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Old 06-19-2013, 10:56 AM  
rstokes28
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All cleaned up and now I'm hunting for the fan motor which I expect to be the end of this drama and back to some good AC in the Phoenix summer.

Thank you for the good advice.

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Old 06-19-2013, 08:01 PM  
rstokes28
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I found a new fan motor with the same specifications for $111.00 and it got it installed with no problems. It came with its own capacitor which wasn't an issue. The home seems to be cooling at near double the rate it was before the failure.
Thanks again for the help. -

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Old 06-19-2013, 08:10 PM  
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Good deal. You should have 18-21 degrees diff between the
Cold air and return air temps once house stabilizes.

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Old 06-19-2013, 08:26 PM  
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What would be the best method and tool to check that difference?

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Old 06-20-2013, 06:55 AM  
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What I do is make a small hole in the duct above the A Coil that is connected to the furnace/air handler(assuming you have a vertical setup. If horizontal then insert between A Coil and duct work). Insert the thermometer there to check the air being cooled and also check the air at your filter in the return or make a small hole in the return duct and check right before it goes back into the air handler.
I use a digital thermometer like this one. I buy mine locally at AC supply house. Use some foil tape or electrical take to cover the tiny hole you made in the ducts.

http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Digital...al+thermometer



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