tndave

MOdel NULK100DH03 867.779432

It had been clicking a lot while it was running so I watched it and the flame would go out but the main blower would stay on and then in a couple minutes the flame would re-light. It did that for about a month now it's not heating at all. When you turn it on and it gets heat signal (checking board at C & W terminals I get 24 volts) Nothing happens for a while and then the main blower comes on, but no flame, inducer fan never comes on, no clicking sounds & ignighter never glows. There is no voltage going to inducer motor. There is gas in the tank. Picture included.

Thanks!!

tndave

18 views and no ideas? It's getting cold in here

paul52446m

If you are getting 24 volts from c to w then the board should be turning on the inducer, If not change the board because the relay in the board is not powering the inducer. Paul

tndave

Thanks...I don't see a open circuit board, so I assume that this is it in the picture below. I have another one & that's the first thing I did was try the other one & it didn't help...of course I don't know if it's any good either, it was just sitting on top of the one in use. I guess there's not a way to test it...I'll just have to buy one & try it..?

Hopefully I can find one locally cheaper than this... Hot Surface Ignition Control Module.(Amana, Goodman, Trane, White Rodgers, York): American HVAC Parts

paul52446m

That control is for the ignition. You do not have a board like i thought you had. Follow the 120 volt wires from the inducer back down to see where they go. One wire should go to a relay. That relay should have a 24volt coil to make it . See if you can check that relay for 24 volts. If you have 24 volts and its not making the 120 to go to inducer, then that relay is whats bad. paul

tndave

Ok, the relay has 6 wires & it is getting about 95 volts on one post (the black wire coming from the transformer) & 29 on another (red wire coming from low voltage board) and it is not putting out anything on the heavy black wire which goes to the inducer. None of the other posts had voltage...it is labeled "System Relay in the diagram.

Thanks!!

paul52446m

On your system relay post 7 and 8 is your 24volt power so check these two post on a call for heat to see if you have at least 24 volts, if you do then the relay should snap close and start the inducer.
I can't see the top side of you wiring. Have you checked the roll out switch's
to make sure you are getting power through them to go to the relay. Paul

paul52446m

[QUOTE=paul52446m;54780]On your system relay post 7 and 8 is your 24volt power so check these two post on a call for heat to see if you have at least 24 volts, if you do then the relay should snap close and start the inducer.
I can't see the top side of you wiring. Have you checked the roll out switch's
to make sure you are getting power through them to go to the relay. Paul[/QUOTE

Post 7 in that relay is the common post
In the lower right corner of wiring diagram you will see post 7and 8 with coil in the middle. There you can see that the power coming to post 8 has to go through a limit and a roll- out switch. Paul

tndave

When I was origionally testing voltage I slipped the terminals up each post far evough to get a probe on the post & 8 showed 0 voltage. But now more testing reveals that if I disconnect it and just test the wire it has 25 volts. Once when I had the tester probes on 7 & 8 & squeezed toward each other in an effort to make sure I was getting good contact the inducer came on for about 3 seconds. But I have cleaned the post & squeezed the terminal & wiggled & it won't come back on. I don't see any corrosion or anything like that. I guess that little relay is just sucking all of the ampage so the meter shows 0 volts. I even tested the other end of the wire and it shows the same thing.

Thanks!!

paul52446m

sounds like you better put a new relay on . Relays like that will do that clicking
if they have low 24 volts or just getting bad coil or contacts points.
Later Paul