Originally Posted by brvision
I took a picture but don't see an easy way to upload it here. . .
Thanks for that description. . .It is definitely not a Thermocouple. . .I've lived too long and misspoke. . .But. . .I actually don't see a rod. . .
I just see a fork that is the object of the flame. . .then a source of spark in front and below it. . .and then the pilot opening with a shovel shaped flame director over it that is the object of the spark. The only wire is to fire the ignition spark. . .
The "fork" just appears to be grounded. . .
I emery-ed off the Fork and pilot still not lighting. . .
I don't understand how reseting the gas valve could always stop any flame liftoff when under normal circumstances it almost always happens? Plus, the pilot, after gas valve reset heats up the 2 pronged "fork" to redhot instantly.
I will try cleaning up the fork one more time and check in the dark with better flame visibility for the "liftoff". I'm starting to think that the thermostat is not being satisfied but why would the safety turn off with just a spark or is it on a timer?
You are so right about valves being expensive. . .!
Thanks for stepping up to the plate on this, Paul. . .winter is coming and I don't want to have to nurse this like a herd of milk cows. . .
It would be nice to see the pictures, but anyway the sparker
is also the flame rod. After the flame lites then the sparker power stops and the pilot flame going across the the sparker flame rod make the milliamp power. So it is still important to clean that sparker. Milliamp power
can be anything from 3 to 30 milliamp s, it depends on the gas valve being used. Later Paul