hos

If you understand my problem correctly -- I'm afraid you might be right. If I understand this - the 3rd wire in the 14/3 becomes the power that runs through the whole lot of lights and then bypasses the first switch? Is that why only 14/2 is required for the second switch and set of lights?

kok328

Your still reading the circuit backwards but, I understand what you want to do and should follow JoeD's suggestion to achieve your desired results. Although, it almost sounds like the circuit is doubling back on itself giving you the impression that the switch is at the end of the circuit.

hos

So what if I ran a new wire from the breaker box to the double gang switch box? Could I spit the hot wire to each switch and then run from the switch to each set of lights and still have the lights controlled separately?

I'm now trying to avoid having to run 12/3 to each of my lights. I already have 12/2. If I wrote 14/x before -- it was a mistake.

hos

I guess when I say circuit -- I mean the breaker. But I should mean the switch and lights?

hos

Ok. I rewired it and had the 12/2 wire come from the breaker boxes into the switch box. I split the hot and neutral to the switches and ran from the switch to the lights. They work! Although the lights are flickering -- not sure why that is. It's the helical flourescent mercury laden ones. Thanks for the help!

hos

One more thing.....As long as I have 12/3 wire, can I put a light switch anywhere in a circuit and still have hot outlets (e.g. circuit begins at an outlet, then runs to the lights, then the switch and then another outlet)??

As long as I have 12/3 running from the light to the switch?

kok328

Ok, sounds like you wired it per my instructions instead of JoeD's instructions. Your posting was a bit confusing and depending on how we interpret it, you'll wind up with two different set of instructions.
In regards to your final question, the answer is yes but, not per your (e.g.).
Your (e.g.) implies that the lights can never be shut off because there's no switch between the outlet and the lights. The lights can be powered on one switched circuit inside the 14/3 and the outlets can be powered on the other hot circuit in the 14/3. Just make sure to tie the outlet circuit to the incoming side of the switch or you'll end up with switched outlets.
Another thing is that you only need 14/2 or 14/3 depending on what you want to do but, 12/3 is overkill.

KEITH

I think you better recheck that wiring. If you have the black from the panel hooked up to the black of the first light and the white from the panel hooked up to the white of the first light then the light would always be on.

KEITH

I think you want to do somethng like this

HTML Code:

         bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
         b                        b
         b                        b
         b   +========+           b   +========+
         b   "        "           b   "        "
     bbbbbbbb"        "           bbbb"        "
             "        "               "        "
             "        "               "        "
       BBBBBB"        "         BBBBBB"        "
       B     "        "         B     "        "
       B     +========+         B     +========+
       B                        B
       B                        B
       B                        B

This is just for the black wires
b= black from panel
B= black to lights

all whites get tied together

Sandman

Can someone please explain why in kok's original post the split neutrals need to go directly to the light fixtures instead of through each switch?