BillTheTailor

I've got two ceiling fans that are humming. One's installed using a deep box screwed to a 2 x 4 across the joists, the other using a hanging kit. The one on the 2x4 hums loudly, the other only a little. In other parts of the house, there are fans with similar installations that don't hum. How do I fix the humming?

woodworkingmenace

I have the same problem...

Like a 60 cycle hum... My problem is, I didnt use a wire nut, nor, solder the wires, (to me its the best connection, but my girl busted my cold-heat the first day I used it..sheesh, she dropped it, so I have to order a new one, once I get that, I will solder the wires and see if that stops it).

Mine is a new fan also, so, its not like its got a lot of wear.. so, I will wait another month to get that and find out...(this drives me nuts cause its in my bedroom!!).

I actually wondered if it maybe out of balanced, but, this is a six blade fan 25 inches from tip to tip..(very small fan), so, I wll try this, and if you find out let me know, will ya? Thanks.

Jesse

CraigFL

Teach it the words??..... but seriously, if you think it's the balance, just remove the blades and test this way. It could be the speed controller too.

Index12

Jesse -

Noted you were intending to solder the connection from the fan to the wires in the junction box? This seems a bit extreme! It makes it very difficult to remove, as you have to cut the wires off, or risk weakening the insulation by the heat from the tip of the iron. The wire nuts should easily suffice.

The hum from the fans can be from radiated vibration noises through the joists, or just generally poor manufacturing. Most fans have capacitors installed inside the switch box to suppress AC noise; these are not always adequate. Try the balancing trick - most new fans come with a small kit for this purpose. Beyond this, ensure that if you have a speed controller that is mounted in place of your light switch, that it is one compatible with the fan and made by a solid manufacturer - Lutron is a good source.

If none of these solve the problem, it is unfortunate but the only remedy would be to return the fan and try a different model.

On another note - read my post at http://www.electricalrepairlinks.com on Cold Heat soldering irons - navigate from the menu link "my projects" to the blog. You might change your mind - or just prove me wrong....

petey_racer

All "inexpensive" fans will, or can, hum. From slightly to annoyingly.

The big factors are:
Any speed control will exacerbate the hum. "Quiet" controls will help avoid this. Make SURE the fan is on HIGH speed at the pull chain switch if a wall control is used. Speed controls only slow the fan down. Full rotary controls are the worst and almost always create more hum.
If no wall control is used it is most likely just a cheap fan.



BTW- Soldering alone (even with tape) is IMOabsolutely NOT an acceptable way to connect wires. Wires MUST be mechanically and electrically secure without solder before they are soldered. So solder and tape is basically meaningless.
For small wires (#10 and under), the connection of a properly installed wire nut is the most secure connection.

__________________
Please post back and let us know how it turns out....

BillTheTailor

I've never used anything BUT wire nuts. I've heard that solder is actually bad over the very long term, but I don't know.

I've always thought that the surfaces had to be hot enough to melt the solder before the join would be strong. Just melting the solder onto cold wire doesn't produce a good join. Does the cold iron heat the solder or the surfaces?

Index12

BilltheTailor -

You're right, I should have been more clear - solder should not be used for joining houswiring together. Wire nuts should always be used; they are the expected standard, and solder has inherent problems due in part to user inexperience with the complexities of making a good joint.

Per the questions on the cold heat soldering iron: Take a look at my blog post on it - I put a comment in there to reply to another viewer; I found a web page that has pictures of the iron in action. It uses an electrical arc across a ceramic tip to melt the solder - so not suitable for electronics, and I would have my doubts about making a good joint that way. However, Weller appears to be jumping into the act with a Pro version - interesting....