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-   -   Running a 110V outlet + light from 220V source (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/running-110v-outlet-light-220v-source-17157/)

Mike-in-GA 12-30-2013 04:00 PM

Running a 110V outlet + light from 220V source
 
Hello All,

My cabin receives water from a deep-well pump. The pump motor requires a 220V power supply, which is fed from the cabin’s electrical service panel. The well, electrical box and pressure tank are located about 200’ from the cabin, and housed under a 10’X12’ shed; I would like to install a light and at least one outlet in the shed. Question: can a 110V outlet and a separate 110V light be fed off of the 220V line that powers the pump? Or would I have to run a separate line from the cabin to the shed?

I am nowhere near comfortable doing this level of electrical work, and plan to hire a qualified electrician for this project. Just want to be informed so I can scope the project appropriately.

Thanks much!

Mike

nealtw 12-30-2013 05:16 PM

I think what you want is a small sub panel in the shed with breakers for the new light and the pump there. The question will be, size of wire you have and breakers at the house and what the pump uses?

Wuzzat? 12-30-2013 07:14 PM

If you don't want to change wire sizes and the pump runs half the time and you run the lights and outlet only occasionally then you can store energy in batteries in the shed from a 220vac to 12/24/48 vdc charger and use an inverter to supply the AC voltage from the deep-cycle batteries. You need to vent the hydrogen put out during charging, though.

Get enough bids to cluster around a center value.

kok328 12-30-2013 08:42 PM

A 110V circuit requires a neutral leg. A 220V circuit does not have a neutral leg.
The electrician will have to run a new circuit for 110V outlets/lights.

JoeD 12-31-2013 06:55 AM

It all depends if the line to the pump has a neutral wire. If it does then a small sub panel with a double breaker for the pump and a 15 amp breaker for the light and receptacle is the best solution.

You are not permitted to run two feeds to a detached building. So if you do not have a neutral then you need to replace the feed cable or pull a neutral wire if the building is fed by conduit.

Wuzzat? 12-31-2013 02:40 PM

I have a fist-sized power convertor that does Germany 220v to US 110v and it might work for various loads and certainly for incandescent lights. IIRC, 1600W, 50W minimum, and it may not care about 50 Hz or 60 Hz.

nealtw 12-31-2013 04:59 PM

Perhaps he could find a light that would work on 220 volts and forget the outlet.

Wuzzat? 12-31-2013 05:49 PM

Putting two 120v incand. bulbs in series will sort of work; one may last long and the other not so long due to somewhat unequal voltage sharing.
Using four bulbs, two in parallel in series with two in parallel may lessen this effect.
Don't do this with CFLs, though.

But with the convertor you can run some serious stuff as long as those things don't mind being powered by a square wave instead of a sine wave. Small power tools, etc..

JoeD 12-31-2013 06:30 PM

A lot of nonsense being proposed here. A feed line with a neutral is what you need.

Wuzzat? 01-01-2014 10:09 AM

My advice is worth every penny that was paid for it.:2cents:


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