DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Electrical and Wiring > Under Cabinet Lighting




Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 04-17-2008, 10:35 PM  
triple D
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 296
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Default Hold the boat!!!

I can almost guarantee your microwave will not work on this circuit. It will snap the breaker like a dry twig. A micro hood combo will draw at least 1350 watts, and surely calls for a dedicated circuit. Just the micro and the existing lights will probably do it in alone. So you might consider putting micro on counter top, and plugging in the kitchen circuit your fridge is not on. Then you are right on track with switching changes for lights. You could run 14-2 and stub in center under each upper, right up against bottom of cabinet, these could run in a daisy chain, or you could run one for each cabinet back to j-box under counter. Then you could pick from several lights like flourescent or halogen. I'm sure we could find a little room in your panel for that new micro circuit, if you showed us a picture of it. Hey, good luck!



__________________

[COLOR="DarkGreen"][FONT="Franklin Gothic Medium"]See my work-Check out my album. "Git 'Er Done":D [/FONT][/COLOR]


Last edited by triple D; 04-30-2008 at 11:33 AM.
triple D is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-18-2008, 10:15 AM  
cibula11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 331
Default

The other circuit in my kitchen has the fridge and two receptacles. Anyway that would work for the micro hood?

Is there any way I can replace the vent hood with the over the range micro at all? I really don't have experience adding a new circuit and I know that when I had some electrical updated they used some tandem breakers to free up space, so I really don't think I have any room. I already have the micro hood, so if it is between an over the range microwave and adding new cabinet lights I will take the microwave and do plug in lights if necessary.


Okay, I just realized after reading some things that it is common to put a gas stove and vent hood/microhood on the same circuit. I replaced the gas stove with electric, which freed up the outlet that was used for the gas range. So, could I just add the microwave on this circuit (what used to be used by the gas range) by extending the wiring to the upper cabinets?



__________________

Last edited by cibula11; 04-18-2008 at 12:53 PM.
cibula11 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-18-2008, 03:28 PM  
speedy petey
Lic.Electrical Contractor
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 436
Liked 32 Times on 23 Posts
Likes Given: 16

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cibula11 View Post
So, could I just add the microwave on this circuit (what used to be used by the gas range) by extending the wiring to the upper cabinets?
What else is on that circuit?
__________________
speedy petey is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-19-2008, 07:23 AM  
cibula11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 331
Default

I checked what was on the old gas range circuit and I found that there was a couple of receptacles on it as well. I plugged in the new over the range microwave on this circuit and turned pretty much everthing else on in the kitchen. I figured the breaker would trip, but it didn't. The only thing I noticed was when I turned the garabage disposal on, the lights flickered, but even without the micro running, they do that now.

I know that what is current code is probably not how my house was wired. The breakers have never tripped and I haven't had any problems with overloading a circuit. I guess I'm trying to figure out if this is a MAJOR no no, or if it is just not up to current code?

__________________
cibula11 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-19-2008, 11:47 AM  
triple D
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 296
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Default well......

A major no no, maybe not, but a code issue? YES, But after all, its just us guys out here, I won't say anything if you don't. If the proposed outlet you spoke of for the micro, is the old gas oven power, and disposal, and a couple of counter top plugs that never get used, and a couple of existing lights; and you tried it and had no problem, and nothing will be plugged in to the other plugs like toaster, skillet, coffee, etc, etc., then I think it would work in theory. Is it right? NO, But probably will work. Definitely scratch u.c. lights off this circuit's list. Good luck!

__________________

[COLOR="DarkGreen"][FONT="Franklin Gothic Medium"]See my work-Check out my album. "Git 'Er Done":D [/FONT][/COLOR]


Last edited by triple D; 04-30-2008 at 11:38 AM.
triple D is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-19-2008, 12:32 PM  
cibula11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 331
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by triple D View Post
And nothing will be plugged in to the other plugs like toaster, skillet, coffee, ect., ect. than I think it would work in theory. Is it right? NO, But probably will work. Definately scratch u.c. lights of this circuits list. Good luck! Take er easy.....
Occasionally there will be some things plugged in, but obviously not running all at the same time. I'll get an estimate and see if it is worth it. I am just noticing as I learn more about electricity, that most the way my home is done is not "code". It works perfectly fine and in my opinion is not dangerous. I just didn't know how this ranked on that scale.

Do you have any idea what running a circuit would cost me? I'd say the kitchen is about 25-30 ft away from the panel and the guy I use charges 60-70/per hr. (All cabinets would be removed for easy access)
__________________
cibula11 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-22-2008, 10:29 AM  
cibula11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 331
Default

If I run a dedicated circuit for my microhood, and I have no more breaker space, can I: Take any 20 amp breaker and replace with a 20A tandem? Then run 12-2 or 12-3 wire from the one side of the breaker to the new microhood location and then reconnect whateve it was I took off the old breaker and attach the the new tandem? Is this correct or am I missing a bunch? Anything else I need to consider?

__________________
cibula11 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-22-2008, 03:09 PM  
Square Eye
Senior Member
 
Square Eye's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,273
Liked 4 Times on 4 Posts

Default

12-2w/g wire with it's neutral connected, yes.
12-3w/g wire in a panel often indicates a shared neutral. Definitely not something you'd want to do with a single pole tandem breaker.

Anyway, yes, that would give you a dedicated circuit to the microwave. All other general purpose receptacles need to be gfci protected.

__________________

[URL="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/announcement.php?f=39&a=6"][size=3]The Ten Commandments of House Repair Talk[/size][/URL]



[URL="http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=16&groupid=289528&ck="]Square Eye's home page[/URL]

Square Eye is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-22-2008, 04:17 PM  
cibula11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 331
Default

Okay so my neutral bar has all slots filled. In fact the last contractor doubled up some neutrals. Can I just add to an existing neutral. As long as I make sure I securing screw down both neutrals is it doable? I know probably not code, but doable?

__________________

Last edited by cibula11; 04-22-2008 at 05:19 PM.
cibula11 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-22-2008, 06:47 PM  
Square Eye
Senior Member
 
Square Eye's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,273
Liked 4 Times on 4 Posts

Default

Kill the main breaker then it's doable.
Sometimes code is in the eye of the local inspector. I would usually buy the larger ground/neutral buss from the manufacturer if I knew I wasn't going to have enough room for my neutrals. But I've seen 2 wires under 1 screw a million times.

If your panel is a newer bonded type and you can see that the green bonding screw is in place, you may be able to buy a grounding bar and move some of your bare copper ground wires to that, to make room for more neutrals. You must buy the original manufacturer's kit for it to fit properly and be legal though.



__________________

[URL="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/announcement.php?f=39&a=6"][size=3]The Ten Commandments of House Repair Talk[/size][/URL]



[URL="http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=16&groupid=289528&ck="]Square Eye's home page[/URL]

Square Eye is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter DIY Home Repair Forum Replies Last Post
Lighting Information Articles DoA General Home Improvement Discussion 1 06-08-2011 05:21 AM
Base Cabinet Dilemma Browse General Home Improvement Discussion 9 01-19-2010 08:29 AM
NEW Hidden Storage Cabinet (Ideal for use as a Medicine Cabinet) Hyde325 General Home Improvement Discussion 6 10-22-2009 10:08 AM
Recessed lighting question RyanBruner Electrical and Wiring 6 11-19-2008 06:21 PM
Lighting Tips & Advice - Interesting Reading DoA Electrical and Wiring 0 05-31-2006 04:41 AM