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12-01-2012, 03:03 PM
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1
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Wiring my garage
I am trying to connect power to my detached garage, from my in house breaker box. Any suggestions?
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12-02-2012, 07:03 AM
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,429
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Decide whether you want a subpanel in the garage, which depends on the distance to the garage.
For working on your load center, level 2 arc flash gear is recommended.
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12-02-2012, 08:38 AM
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Welland, Ontario
Posts: 737
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Figure out how much power you need. Then you will know if you need a sub panel or single circuit. Dig a trench 2 feet deep and bury the proper cable or conduit and wire it.
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12-02-2012, 07:11 PM
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Cottage Grove, Oregon
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Plan ahead, and try to think of any/all possible future uses in the garage. Such things as--will you ever want to hook up an arc welder, or possibly fire up a kiln for fusing glass or pottery? If you only run a single line of 110 v., and later decide you really need 220 v., you will kick yourself for not putting in the heavier line wire the first time around.
I think a separate sub-panel in the garage is a must. Even if you never have the need for future, larger draw circuits, as it will save a trip back into the house to reset any breakers that trip. If it were me, I'd definitely want a dedicated appliance circuit (20-amp, 12-gauge wire) or two, and then at least one lighting and future electric garage door opener circuit (15-amp, 14-gauge wire), in addition to a 50-amp welding circuit. Pulling them all from the new sub-panel, leaving some room to spare for future circuits. And don't forget to apply for a permit, if required by the AHJ in your area.
Last edited by BridgeMan; 12-02-2012 at 07:14 PM.
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12-03-2012, 02:50 PM
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,429
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The choice seems to be wiring your garage in increments
or
going for the full monty:
a lump sum paid now
vs.
small lumps paid over years, as you need them.
Note that half the people move in 7 years and almost all move within 14 years so you should judge the likelihood that you'll need the full monty within X years.
Costs & likelihoods will give you a mathematical way to make this decision. It's like another opinion but it's based on science so I guess that makes it a matter of fact.
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12-03-2012, 07:54 PM
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 86
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A wise person once said a man can never have too many outlets in a shop/garage.
__________________
Wife: "You can buy anything you want when you redo this house."
Husband: "Could I get that in writing, dear?"
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12-04-2012, 08:38 AM
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,429
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But not all outlets will be used at the same time. The NEC term for this is demand factor or diversity factor.
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12-04-2012, 11:33 AM
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Location: vancouver, b.c.
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If you dig the ditch for underground just put in a bigger conduit so if you or someone else want to up grade, it will be no big deal.
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12-04-2012, 02:20 PM
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Cottage Grove, Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nealtw
If you dig the ditch for underground just put in a bigger conduit so if you or someone else want to up grade, it will be no big deal.
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Far easier to make all wiring runs when the conduit is placed, especially if it's a long run with some dips and doodles in it. If you choose not to do that, then at least include a pull-wire in the conduit. And use much larger conduit than actually required, so you're not talking to yourself for a whole weekend, trying to jam more wires into/through a tube that's too tiny.
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12-04-2012, 06:27 PM
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Canaan, New York
Posts: 18
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I would run 10-3+ground to the garage. Cheapest is underground cable. You can put a small sub panel in the garage.
This assumes you will not be doing electric welding in the garage. If you plan on doing welding, then 6-3+ground. Or better yet 100 amp service.
Conduit is always a good thing.
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