My Roof Repair Project Has Begun - Phase 1 The Pergola

A few months back I started a post about an upcoming project to repair a poorly installed lanai roof.
I have finally begun the project. It is in 3 parts:

1.
A 64' X 11' attached back lanai with about 1/2 of it screen enclosed.

2.
A pergola over the spa tub

3.
An unattached front lanai

All three roofs were made from the Palram Suntuf panels. I will be using the same type of new panels for

the rebuild.

I have begun with the pergola roof first.

I have removed the roof; the rafters and one corner post with a rusted out anchor bolt and tie.

Due to the prior owner's not properly installing the roof, rot has set into the rafters where the roof

leaked and fasteners were installed. It is not bad enough to to make the beams structurally unsound.


I am repairing them with penetrating epoxy, and will reuse them all instead of buying new lumber.

I have considered buying a hammer drill/rotary hammer to remove the rusted out anchor bolt.

But, I just don't see that as a justifiable expense. It's unlikely I'll ever find much use for it after finishing this. So, I have a 4# smiths hammer and have ordered a pointed concrete chisel and a 1" cold chisel to manually remove the concrete necessary to remove and replace the anchor bolt. The concrete is about 10 years old and is wet much of the time. It's probably very hard by now. Am I biting off too much by trying to do it manually?

After finishing the epoxying, I intend to repaint all the pieces before reassembling them. Our Paints are H.D.'s Beher and Glidden exterior paints. Might there be problems with these paints adhering to the epoxy?

I would rent the hammer drill and install one or two of these post holders. They are made just for that job.
https://www.strongtie.com/retrofitpostbases_postbases/rpbz_base/p/rpbz

These appear similar to what you have and as you can see, there are no legs on the bolt straps extending into the concrete; http://www.fastenersplus.com/Simpso...EMtmnQv9y5Nj1rIDlYrVphh34mGjUARYIshoC0Rbw_wcB

As Neal suggested, rent the SDS roto-hammer, cut the bolt off flush, remove the base plate and with a 1/2" X15" SDS masonry drill bit, drill down beside the bolt and remove it.

Set the new bolt, post base and standoff plate in an anchoring epoxy.

Snoonyb said:

These appear similar to what you have and as you can see, there are no legs on the bolt straps extending into the concrete; http://www.fastenersplus.com/Simpso...EMtmnQv9y5Nj1rIDlYrVphh34mGjUARYIshoC0Rbw_wcB

As Neal suggested, rent the SDS roto-hammer, cut the bolt off flush, remove the base plate and with a 1/2" X15" SDS masonry drill bit, drill down beside the bolt and remove it.

Set the new bolt, post base and standoff plate in an anchoring epoxy.

Click to expand...

The rusted pin or bolt in the center of the old one will be in the way.:hide:

Thanks guys for your input on this.

A little more info.
I'm in Hawai'i on the windward side of Big Island. My area is rated at 150" of precip/yr. Rust, rot and termites are the greatest threat to all structures here.

I'm 50 miles r/t from town. A rental would entail 100 miles of travel to pick up and drop off. We have the highest fuel prices in the country, making it about a $25 to $30 fuel bill for my Dakota V8 on top of the rental fee. I'd rather buy than rent.

This is the type of tie used on the corner posts:

They keep the end of the posts off the concrete keeping them drier than if they rested directly on it.
The posts are treated 4X6's but are still showing some deterioration after 10 years or so. The one you've recommended leaves me with serious doubts as to its long term servicability under our conditions.

But, I am now back to thinking of purchasing the tool again.
My feeling is that a Hammer Drill is nothing more than a light weight reduced capability version of a Rotary Hammer, basically a toy rotary hammer. But, maybe a rotary drill could do the job for me.

How about if I drilled a series of holes around the old anchor bolt. Enough so that I could break the old bolt out. Then install the new bolt adding new concrete around it. I'd have to wait a month or so for it to harden properly before tightening the new bolt. The other 3 anchor bolts are looking a bit weathered and could use replacing, but it's not critical yet. If I bought a hammer drill, I'd replace them also in the same manner. I'm thinking that would make the pergola good enough to outlast me and come close to justifying the purchase of a hammer drill.

Thoughts?

I suspect that the bolt in the old one was not galvanized. So checking condition of the rest might be a good idea.
You could just move them all a couple inches so you don't have to remove the old bolt.
If the posts are soft on the bottom you could cut a little off all of them Three or four inches lower might not hurt.

You can buy the treatment, called end grain treatment And add a little to the posts.
Check the pawn shop for the hammer drill.

nealtw said:

The rusted pin or bolt in the center of the old one will be in the way.:hide:

Click to expand...

That's why I said, "cut the bolt off flush, remove the base plate and with a 1/2" X15" SDS masonry drill bit, drill down beside the bolt and remove it.

Set the new bolt, post base and standoff plate in an anchoring epoxy."

voyager said:

I'm 50 miles r/t from town. A rental would entail 100 miles of travel to pick up and drop off. We have the highest fuel prices in the country, making it about a $25 to $30 fuel bill for my Dakota V8 on top of the rental fee. I'd rather buy than rent.

Click to expand...

A BOUSCh hammer drill is about $150 at HD or LOWES and a BOUSCH SDS roto-hammer is about $500

voyager said:

They keep the end of the posts off the concrete keeping them drier than if they rested directly on it.
The posts are treated 4X6's but are still showing some deterioration after 10 years or so. The one you've recommended leaves me with serious doubts as to its long term servicability under our conditions.

Click to expand...

The one referenced in post #3 is 4X4, and is a standoff you desire, however you can change the search terms to 4X6

voyager said:

But, I am now back to thinking of purchasing the tool again.
My feeling is that a Hammer Drill is nothing more than a light weight reduced capability version of a Rotary Hammer, basically a toy rotary hammer. But, maybe a rotary drill could do the job for me.

Click to expand...

It will do the job, it just takes longer.

voyager said:

How about if I drilled a series of holes around the old anchor bolt. Enough so that I could break the old bolt out. Then install the new bolt adding new concrete around it. I'd have to wait a month or so for it to harden properly before tightening the new bolt. The other 3 anchor bolts are looking a bit weathered and could use replacing, but it's not critical yet. If I bought a hammer drill, I'd replace them also in the same manner. I'm thinking that would make the pergola good enough to outlast me and come close to justifying the purchase of a hammer drill.

Click to expand...

From post #3;"cut the bolt off flush, remove the base plate and with a 1/2" X15" SDS masonry drill bit, drill down beside the bolt and remove it.

Set the new bolt, post base and standoff plate in an anchoring epoxy."

The bracket you used for the others does well as a standoff, bur does little for lateral resistance.

You might want to rethink that, being on the windward side, as you are.

OK, I'm coming up with a plan.

Amazon has shipped my order with the chisels.
They'll be here in about 4 days.
When they get here I'll give them a try.
If they are [,or I am] not up to the job, I'll order the El Cheapo $70 Chinese Rotary Hammer Drill [fancy deceptive description for a hammer drill] from Amazon. If I don't abuse it and over work it, it will probably do the job. If it breaks, I'll send it back and probably move up to a Dewalt Rotary Hammer.

Anyone with thoughts on the paint - epoxy compatibility?

I have some questions about the next phase of this project.
I'll put them in their own thread.

@ Snoonyb

The term "windward side" does not mean that we get constant high winds. I means that we are on the side that the prevailing trade winds blow into. Because of the uplift as the winds hit the island, we get more precipitation than the Leeward or Kona side does. Much of the Kona side has a climate similar to So. Cal. Here on the windward side, I live on a clearing in the jungle surrounded and somewhat protected by trees, although some of them have threatened the house during the storms. That is not to say that we do not get high winds here. We've had 2 hurricanes and a hurricane force Kona wind since moving here. But, the pergola' structure has held up well. Only the poorly installed roofing panels have taken a beating. That's what I intend to get fixed now so that it will hold up through the next wind storm.

The key to success with any painted surface is prime and paint, however I would use a D/E, K/M or S/W oil base paint.

I spent 4yrs. at Pearl Harbor on both surface and subs.

Do you have HomeDepot and Lowes out there?
I wonder if a Black & Decker Matrix with impact attachment would work for the drilling, or would it be too weak?

I think that if you sand epoxy to give it some rough surface for the paint to grab and used primer and then paint it might work-- but you'd have to see if the paint brand will work. I know Krylon makes paints that adhere to plastics and other surfaces. If epoxy isn't going to work, you might try to find some sort of marine grade wood sealant that is paintable.

Good luck with this project. I look forward to seeing the progress.

I only stopped in Hawaii a couple of times on my way to and from Guam many years ago. I spent 9 years on Guam and it sounds like you have similar weather conditions there.

@ Snoonyb
Yes! The anchoring epoxy is the way to go when installing the new replacement anchors. I won't have to wait for the concrete to harden.

We have a HD here in Hilo. There is one in Kona also plus a Lowes. Kona is a 2-1/2 hour drive one way. We do go over there every 3 or 4 months to COSTCO for our bulk shopping. Anyway, the least expensive hammer drills or rotary hammers with 3 functions and SDS chucks at the Hilo HD are a Milwaukee and a Bosch each at $180.
I'd have to see much future use before I could justify spending that much.

I was thinking that sanding the epoxied surfaces might help the paint adhere better. That I will do at the least.

@ nealtw
You're probably right. The anchors may not have been galvanized. But, the tie was, as you can see from the picture of the old and new ties. Even so, it had rusted out completely and was nothing more than a pile of rust flakes on and under the post. That corner was very wet, probably from the roof panels leaking.

@ zannej
The B&D Matrix has an impact driver attachment, but no hammer drill attachment. Don't think it has the capability for the job.

Yeah, the conditions that setup the local climates on an island in the middle of an ocean are probably the same no matter which island your on.

Or, you can retain the tools until all of the connectors have been replaced and sell them on Ebay.

What ever connector you use there are cold application galv. and/or rust inhibiting primers.

Snoonyb said:

Or, you can retain the tools until all of the connectors have been replaced and sell them on Ebay. ...
.

Click to expand...

It'll never happen. I'm a hardcore gear-head. Any tool or outdoor equipment I acquire will be mine forever, at least until my kids have an estate sale to get rid of them. I don't have enough storage for the tools I bought to build more storage for the other things we've got.

I take it you don't have any friends in the area who might have the tool for you to borrow? Although, I don't know how he whole "borrowing" thing works in Hawaii. In Guam if someone asked to borrow something, they would not return it until / unless the original owner asked to borrow it back. They sometimes joked it was "borrow to own". Hopefully in Hawaii they return things.

The Quonset huts don't glow in Hawaii, like they do in Guam.

zannej said:

I take it you don't have any friends in the area who might have the tool for you to borrow? Although, I don't know how he whole "borrowing" thing works in Hawaii. In Guam if someone asked to borrow something, they would not return it until / unless the original owner asked to borrow it back. They sometimes joked it was "borrow to own". Hopefully in Hawaii they return things.

Click to expand...

My experiences through the years have made me very reluctant to borrow or lend, especially tools. I really hate to have to buy a new tool to replace a borrowed one that broke or died. I also hate to buy a new tool to replace a loaned one that was returned in pieces, or never found its way back home. And, If I borrow, then I'm obligated to lend. Rather than lend a tool , I'm more likely to take the tool and do the job they need done myself on my own schedule. My tools last longer, always find their way home, and the requests to borrow seem to become fewer and fewer. I'm always leery of anyone that says they'll treat it as if it were their own, especially after seeing how they treat their tools.

voyager said:

My experiences through the years have made me very reluctant to borrow or lend, especially tools. I really hate to have to buy a new tool to replace a borrowed one that broke or died. I also hate to buy a new tool to replace a loaned one that was returned in pieces, or never found its way back home. And, If I borrow, then I'm obligated to lend. Rather than lend a tool , I'm more likely to take the tool and do the job they need done myself on my own schedule. My tools last longer, always find their way home, and the requests to borrow seem to become fewer and fewer. I'm always leery of anyone that says they'll treat it as if it were their own, especially after seeing how they treat their tools.

Click to expand...

I like that attitude and I have lots of tools that are missing in action.:down:

So don't borrow, find someone with a drill and pay him to come drill the holes.
30 bucks and a couple beer.

nealtw said:

I like that attitude and I have lots of tools that are missing in action.:down:

So don't borrow, find someone with a drill and pay him to come drill the holes.
30 bucks and a couple beer.

Click to expand...

Maybe throw in some SPAM with the beer.

Yeh mean "miner's meat"?