3-way LED problems

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user 4883

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I'm attempting to replace my GE reveal 3-way incandescent bulbs with 3-way LED bulbs. So far I've tried Phillips and Sylvaina bulbs with weird results.
I bought two bulbs and had the following results for both lamps.
1. LED bulb doesn't work on low setting
2. LED bulb works on middle setting
3. LED bulb works on high setting with no difference in brightness between middle setting and high setting.
4. Second LED bulb doesn't work at all.

I know the lamp is OK cause the incandescent bulbs work fine on all 3 settings.
The GE reveals are 30/70/100, the new LED (both brands, dimmable and non-dimmable) are 40/60/100.
I called Phillips and they say they don't know what the problem could be.

What am I missing here?
 
LED's have a driver which may not be compatible with your incandescent lamp socket.
 
nealtw said:
2 contacts.:confused:
Click to expand...

Thanks Neal, you are correct and it's really getting annoying - LOL.

I took another look and found one contact with a hint of corrosion on it.
Funny though both GE incandescents worked fine with the corrosion.
Cleaned up the contact and got one bulb to work in both lamps.
I'm still having a problem with the other bulb in both lamps so I have to come to the conclusion that the offending bulb has a bad driver in it.
I will have to exchange it tomorrow but, am saddened by the fact that these are not manufactured with better quality control and the odds of getting a new bulb that is bad right out of the package has been 2 out of 4 so far.

Thank you for you assistance in getting my head out of my butt.
 
Unfortunatley, these can not be continuity tested with a meter like incandescents can. I even asked the big box store to screw it into a 3-way lamp to test it before I walk out the door with it and they informed me that they don't have a 3-way socket to test with.
Uh, really, you mean to tell me out of all those lamps in your lighting section not one is a 3-way? uh yea right.
 
kok328 said:
Unfortunatley, these can not be continuity tested with a meter like incandescents can. I even asked the big box store to screw it into a 3-way lamp to test it before I walk out the door with it and they informed me that they don't have a 3-way socket to test with.
Uh, really, you mean to tell me out of all those lamps in your lighting section not one is a 3-way? uh yea right.
Click to expand...

take you lamp to the store.:trophy:
 
No I'm going to start my conversation with
"Can you show me some 3-way lamps?"
And then select my bulb and ask them to test it.
 
Phillips package says assembled in Mexico or china.
Also says I have to register my purchase within 60 days to get the 10 yr warranty. What a crock of feces.
I've had my GE reveals for longer than I can remember.
 
You know what they say. If you want all that economy, you are going to have to pay for it.
 
I'm finding the savings on electricity is being offset with the cost of gas on return trips to get a working bulb.
Better off staying down for the count.
 
Some LED and CFL bulbs have a shorter neck than the old incandescent bulbs. It's possible that it's just not making contact correctly because it has bottomed out before reaching the right place.
 
Found that it's the secondary hot tab not making contact.
It's hit and miss as the bulb socket shape isn't consistent. After 5 bulbs I finally found 2 that worked.
 
I got curious and a regular old E-27 base is 1.03” Dia x 1.05” from the top of the screw to the tip. Old bulbs had a long neck and my guess is the socket makers didn’t worry much about how deep the socket was set into the lamp holder.

With these new bulbs being a molded base My guess is they are correct to spec for a E-27 but our old lamps are set too deep in some cases.

I wonder if you took the lamp apart if you could shim out the socket or trim down the housing.
 
Got 2 to work but noticed that the driver/ballast at the bottom of the bulb makes contact with the cardboard insulation before it's done toghtening down.
Shouldn't have to butcher my lamp to get them to work.
 
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