Old Stair Treads

I recently bought a 1920s house and would like to return the stair case to some of it's original charm. The former owner put some ugly laminate on the treads with metal nosing - which isn't very comfy on the toes!

I pulled a couple of the laminate tread covers up to see what shape the wood tread was in. The adhesive is pretty messy to remove, which makes the treads look even worse. The noses are also kind of worn so I was hoping to take the treads out and put in new ones.

As you can see I removed the first tread. It was sitting on the riser and was nailed from the back and through the stringers on each side. I can't access the left side (that's the house wall) or underneath the stairs, which has been closed up.

I'm wondering if it's even possible to replace the treads. I can't see how I would secure the back or left side of the tread to make them strong and secure. The only thing I can think of is if I nail them in on an angle in the back and build little braces on the sides and attach the tread to those. Do you think that would work?

Btw the treads are one true inch thick. Do lumber yards sell true inch pieces or would I have to get them milled?

I think the alternative is to clean the adhesive and strip the paint as best I can, then try to repaint them or cover them with new treads that are maybe 1/2" thick?

Does anyone know how I could put on entirely new treads? Or, do you think I should just put 1/2" thick new treads on top? That's where I'm leaning now. The only downfall I can see is that the top step will be shorter, but not by much. Right now the rise is pretty equally 6 1/2" all the way up.

Thanks!

Yes you can get hardwood treads full size with nose And yes you can support the back.

You add another riser out of plywood just extend it down far enough to attach a 2x2. The 2x2 supports the back of the tread.

The riser plywood can be half inch hard wood to match the tread or for paint use the paper faced sign plywood

Just stay away from the composite crap you will find out there.

If you don't have room for the 2x2 then pre-assemble the riser and tread before you install them

Thanks, nealtw. I never thought of adding a second riser or installing them preassembled. I might try to figure out the 2x2 option tho I'm not sure if I have the room for it. I'll post a picture if I try either.

I can't let the risers take all of the weight, correct? I still need to get the old tread back into the little groves on the stringers and somehow (maybe still with a brace?) nail it to the side of the stairs.

And yeah, you're right! I found an one inch tread on Lowe's website...

mooredaniel1 said:

Thanks, nealtw. I never thought of adding a second riser or installing them preassembled. I might try to figure out the 2x2 option tho I'm not sure if I have the room for it. I'll post a picture if I try either.

I can't let the risers take all of the weight, correct? I still need to get the old tread back into the little groves on the stringers and somehow (maybe still with a brace?) nail it to the side of the stairs.

And yeah, you're right! I found an one inch tread on Lowe's website...

Click to expand...

Not sure what little groves you are talking about..

The old riser were carrying the weight so adding a new riser attached to the old riser will still carry the weight.
As far as fit goes the only problem I have seen is the nose of the top floor is to short. You can cut that back 3" and add a 3 1/2" nose and yes with jigging you can get a perfect cut there.

If the stringers are in rough shape you can just add to the inside of them.

Before anything else check you heights. every step should be the same height within 1/4 inch and 1/8 is better. This would be the time to fix anything that is out of wack

Thanks again!

The treads slide into the stringers about 1/8" so are sitting on both ends about that much. That's were I thought some of the weight was going, but you're right now that I think about it, a lot of the weight has to be on the risers...

I didn't think about adding to the stringers either. If I do I would lose those little groves, but they will make getting a snug fit really hard and if I can support the weight with the risers and the braces, that sounds like a much better job all around! Way easier to get everything to fit.

Just ignore that 1/8, After done you can add the molding down the sides you would cut and upside down stringer out of 1 x 10 and remove just enough nose to slide that into place.
That would be period for the house

I think I get it... So I need to leave myself enough room to get the 1x10 between the treads and the old stringers, then shave the corners of the noses on the treads to get the stringers in?

Thanks for all of your help! Have a great weekend!!