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Old 06-18-2017, 09:29 PM  
nealtw
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I would put the new header right up to the top of the wall just under the top plates witha block on each side down to the old header.
That can be done before the door is re moved. Then anything we need can be worked out with out a problem.

I like the east west answer but do we expect the floor joist to run in the same direction as the wall with the door?

It is going to be hard to figure out exactly what has to be done before digging in there.

Cutting a hole where to the tub will go later might help.

Does this house have and exterior foundation or it is sitting on piers.


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Last edited by nealtw; 06-19-2017 at 04:37 AM.
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Old 06-20-2017, 09:42 PM  
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Oops. Forgot to clarify that the wall with the exterior door runs north to south. I'm currently working on an improved sketch of the layout.

Ok, so I think if we put the header at the top, I won't have to move the electrical box for the back light. That would work better.

And I just got totally distracted because one of my cats is chasing his own tail and making a lot of noise in the process... WTF? Cats. LOL.


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Old 06-20-2017, 10:14 PM  
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That short wall beside the door. The bottom plate of that wall is sitting on the sub floor. That 2x4 is 1 1/2 inches thick, that might help you figure out how much wood is on top of the sub floor.
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Old 06-21-2017, 06:13 AM  
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That short wall beside the door. The bottom plate of that wall is sitting on the sub floor. That 2x4 is 1 1/2 inches thick, that might help you figure out how much wood is on top of the sub floor.
Good idea. I'll have to take a look at it-- and I'll have to see if that wall actually rests on a joist. Some of my walls don't even have bottom plates or any floor under them in spots.
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Old 06-21-2017, 08:54 AM  
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Good idea. I'll have to take a look at it-- and I'll have to see if that wall actually rests on a joist. Some of my walls don't even have bottom plates or any floor under them in spots.
most times those walls don't need to line up with a floor joist. With enough layers of flooring the bottom plate could be below surface.

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Old 06-22-2017, 02:21 PM  
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most times those walls don't need to line up with a floor joist. With enough layers of flooring the bottom plate could be below surface.
I've since sealed it up, but I discovered a few spots inside walls where there was no floor at all underneath parts of the wall. Just gaping holes and a flashlight let me see the dirt on the ground below. LOL.
I'm going to wait til this tropical storm blows through and tackle that wall (once i get my prybar back) to get it out of the way so I can get a better look at the floor.

Flooring forum people recommended having two layers of subfloor to reduce problems from movement.
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Old 06-22-2017, 02:44 PM  
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Flooring forum people recommended having two layers of subfloor to reduce problems from movement.
Yeah they say that.
A friend of mine had a squeaky floor and I said we could just build a pony wall in the crawlspace but the flooring salesman convinced her that all she needs is another layer of plywood and then lino.

The floor still squeaked so they came back and added more staples leveling compound and more lino. It still squeaks and they say they can't be responsible for the structure of the house.

Looking under your house we see possible problems with cut joists. More plywood would never fix it. But that might have been what happened.
Where you could see thru might have been where a repair was done by someone with out the experience to do it right.

You need to train your cat to carry your phone and take a movie down there of the floor from below.
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Old 07-16-2017, 10:18 AM  
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I'm late to the party, but yes, you definitely want flashing under that door. A pan is good. I use lead sheet (roll) and make my own flashing. But something is needed to keep the water out and prevent rot.
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Old 07-17-2017, 10:59 AM  
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I'm late to the party, but yes, you definitely want flashing under that door. A pan is good. I use lead sheet (roll) and make my own flashing. But something is needed to keep the water out and prevent rot.
Thanks! I still need to buy the wood for the header and get that put in. I'm very bad about procrastinating.
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Old 09-03-2017, 02:02 AM  
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I read on some blog somewhere that someone used a 4x4 post instead of sandwiching boards together for a header. Do you think that would work? Or should I have a 4x6 like this? http://www.homedepot.com/p/WeatherSh...0430/100062638

(I may consider getting one or two of those to strengthen the joists-- I think they ran the plywood parallel to the joists rather than perpendicular-- but since I'm going to gut it, I might do it differently, although I'm not having much luck finding the tongue and groove plywood that is actually available in my area).


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