Uh Oh, I think I plugged up my Water Heater

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remout

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Put in 770' of 1 1/2" pvc connecting 6" city water to my old cottage. Didn't flush the system. Just turned it on. My design is:

1 1/2" PVC> shut off valve > reduced to 3/4" PEX > water heater > exit WH via 3/4" PEX > reduced to 1/2" PEX > lavatory sink.

In and out lines to WH run 6" above WH. Initially I had some type of air lock and WH wouldn't fill. I put in a valve at the highest point of the incoming and bled the air. This worked and the WH filled. After it filled I turned the breaker on (it's an electric WH). I had the lavatory hot faucet open the entire time but still ended up with some type of air lock.

Now I'm afraid I've plugged my WH up with mud/sand from my piping install from the water main. I have two test valves at the highest point a few feet from the Attic mounted WH. I've got high pressure coming into the WH but nothing coming out.

If I crack open the WH pressure relief valve I get a dribble of hot water.

Any ideas? Is there a way to back flush a WH?
 
What should of happened is all aerators should have been removed from all all faucets.
Main line turned on and outside faucets opened first to flush out the lines.
Hot water tank drain valve opened up after you connected up a garden hose to drain out any sediment.
Then shut off the drain on the heater, opened up the faucets and bled out all the air and sediment in the lines.
Reinstalled the aerators.
Then turn the water heater back on once there was full flow on the hot side of the faucets.
 
joecaption said:
What should of happened is all aerators should have been removed from all all faucets.
Main line turned on and outside faucets opened first to flush out the lines.
Hot water tank drain valve opened up after you connected up a garden hose to drain out any sediment.
Then shut off the drain on the heater, opened up the faucets and bled out all the air and sediment in the lines.
Reinstalled the aerators.
Then turn the water heater back on once there was full flow on the hot side of the faucets.
Click to expand...

Good to know, but what should the OP do now?
 
Drain some water out of the bottom of the heater and see what comes out.
Did you open up the hot side of the faucet so air can be forced out so the tank can fill?
 
as the tank fills, air has got to go somewhere...

open hot faucets, with aereators off

wh will not fill if you do not bleed air


remove the aerators i have not seen where this has been done yet

most, 98% +/- the problem will be in the stop,

turn watr off, unscrew the bonnet nut. that is the nut holding the handle and stem on

pull stem out and. using a bucket. or i throw a rag over the pipe turn water on to blow out gunk, turn off quickly

bucket should be full of crap


the pressure relief valve LEAVE IT ALONE<<<DONT TOUCH IT
it has snakes crawling all over it...it will bite!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
leave it ALONE...if you dont, you will replace it, just as sure as tomorrow is wednesday
 
Last edited:
My problem turned out to be related getting water into the heater. After calling the manufacturer, I removed the cold water nipple and drip tube. There was debris on both sides of the thermal flap (little rubber flap than limits heat transfer from the tank to cold water waiting in the nipple/hose). After reinstalling, all is well.

Thanks Folks!
 
remout said:
My problem turned out to be related getting water into the heater. After calling the manufacturer, I removed the cold water nipple and drip tube.

There was debris on both sides of the thermal flap (little rubber flap than limits heat transfer from the tank to cold water waiting in the nipple/hose).

After reinstalling, all is well.

Thanks Folks!
Click to expand...

IMO-

Those so called heat traps should be removed, discarded and replaced with PEX lined nipples. Those usually cause more trouble than help.
 
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[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vs5QJi-dX-4"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vs5QJi-dX-4[/ame]
 
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