How to repair hole in Standing Seam Metal Roof

shop deals on amazon
Advertise with us
SpartanEpoxies
House Repair Talk

Help Support House Repair Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
R

railer

Renaissance Man
Joined
Jan 30, 2009
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Hi,

I have an outbuilding that has a standing seam metal roof. During a recent storm tree limbs fell on it and one of them punctured the roof. It's a small hole — 3" in diameter — and I wonder what is the best way to fix it?

Should I replace them entire length of the channel, or just get some self-adhesive peel-and-stick aluminum and slap it on? Or something else? What's the recommended fix for longevity?

Thanks in advance for any advice or help.

Best,
railer
 
Hey Railer,

Interesting question you posted. Concerning whether to patch or totally replace, consider how you want the building to look long-term. Obviously, a patch is not going to look as nice. Standing seam should have no nails showing and it is expensive to replace. Standing seam requires special tools & equipment and around here, they cannot be rented.

Your idea of using self-adhesive aluminum should work although it may have to be replaced every few years. You may also consider using a sheet metal patch anchored in place with screws or rivets. A generous quantity of silicone or other high quality caulk underneath the perimeter of the patch should help prevent leaks. Use enough caulk so that it squishes out from underneath then tool down the caulk around the perimeter of the sheet metal patch forming a tight seal.

Hope this helps,
Doug
 
First, you have to gently unlock the standing seams about 4' on each side of the hole. Only a little bit at a time or you will tear the metal. The transiton area of unlock should be about 12-18" from fully locked, to fully open.


A 2' section of the same roof material will work. Cut the panel in half above and below the hole. For the flatlock, make the cuts about 1" from the standing seams!
Seam the upper half 3/4" for a flat-lock joing, tucked under, of course. Seam the lower 1/2 3/4" over for a flatlock. Take your replacement piece, seam the bottom 3/4" edge down 90 degrees, Use the 'fold of the seam' to get lenght. add 1-7/8" and cut it off. Seam 3/5" over, slide it into place at the upper seam, and finish hemming the lower seam into a flat-lock. Use a sealant in the seams just before hooking them.
 
wow sucks having to post 10 times to put something up, heres number 3!
 
tinner666 said:
First, you have to gently unlock the standing seams about 4' on each side of the hole. Only a little bit at a time or you will tear the metal. The transiton area of unlock should be about 12-18" from fully locked, to fully open.


A 2' section of the same roof material will work. Cut the panel in half above and below the hole. For the flatlock, make the cuts about 1" from the standing seams!
Seam the upper half 3/4" for a flat-lock joing, tucked under, of course. Seam the lower 1/2 3/4" over for a flatlock. Take your replacement piece, seam the bottom 3/4" edge down 90 degrees, Use the 'fold of the seam' to get lenght. add 1-7/8" and cut it off. Seam 3/5" over, slide it into place at the upper seam, and finish hemming the lower seam into a flat-lock. Use a sealant in the seams just before hooking them.
Click to expand...
Can you explain this a bit more, I'm having trouble visualizing the flatlock idea . I would have thought that the standing seam (no fasteners showing ) would be difficult to unlock once snapped into place (installed); how does one unlock the seam without ruining the piece. I would have thought that if the whole piece were unlocked from eave to peak of roof, that the piece could be taken out, cut in half as you suggest, then put a 3' long piec in tucked under the upper half, and over the lower half, then simply relock all parts? thanks for any advice.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top