OK, I just asked this question in the introduction section...starting off not paying attention to directions! So, I have a project here in an old tenement building in NYC. Two by two foot section rotted/rusted out of a ceiling (in a corner). Four or five feet beyond haven't fallen yet, but there is definitely water damage under the tin. The ceiling is heavily painted. The radiator above is now fixed, so the questions begin...what do I use to cut out the section that needs to be replaced? Can I just use sheetrock to bring the tin flush to the other tin over the plaster? How do I meet the seams cleanly, and what is the best way to attach the tin to the joists? Any help, suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks, Karen
tin ceiling repair in NYC
- Thread starter maggdog
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glennjanie
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Hi Karen:
I would use the sawzall with a thick long multi-purpose blade like the Lenox that has dual direction cutting and wide set in the teeth. I have one somewhere and I think it is called The Hatchet. Another brand has a blade called the Saber. I would wear a respriator and full face mask for protection.
Glenn
I would use the sawzall with a thick long multi-purpose blade like the Lenox that has dual direction cutting and wide set in the teeth. I have one somewhere and I think it is called The Hatchet. Another brand has a blade called the Saber. I would wear a respriator and full face mask for protection.
Glenn
ToolGuy
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Hold on there, don't take a sawzall to the tin if you plan on saving it. What you're looking at is "Restoration" work, and is going to require some patience. The tin is nailed along the seams, probably with small finish nails. Carefully get under the seam with a thin scraper blade or similar tool, and try your best to pry it a little at a time, moving evenly around the tin until you can pull the nails.
After you've removed the tin from the area in need of repair, scrape away the plaster with a pry bar or similar heavy tool. You might not need to remove the wood lath (assuming it's wood lath), but if you do have to, save a few pieces to fir the joists if needed.
After the plaster is removed you should be able to determine what thickness drywall you will need, most likely 1/2" or 3/8". whatever the case, once you get it to the proper level, mud and tape it as you would any plaster patch.
While the tin is down is a good time to remove the old paint. A non-toxic paint remover, such as Peel-Away will work well. Then wire brush and or steel wool away any rust. Prime with a rust inhibitive metal primer. Re-attach the tin using the same size nails you removed from it. Prime, paint and if you still have any energy left, pat yourself on the back for doing a good job.
Gotta luv them tin ceilings!
After you've removed the tin from the area in need of repair, scrape away the plaster with a pry bar or similar heavy tool. You might not need to remove the wood lath (assuming it's wood lath), but if you do have to, save a few pieces to fir the joists if needed.
After the plaster is removed you should be able to determine what thickness drywall you will need, most likely 1/2" or 3/8". whatever the case, once you get it to the proper level, mud and tape it as you would any plaster patch.
While the tin is down is a good time to remove the old paint. A non-toxic paint remover, such as Peel-Away will work well. Then wire brush and or steel wool away any rust. Prime with a rust inhibitive metal primer. Re-attach the tin using the same size nails you removed from it. Prime, paint and if you still have any energy left, pat yourself on the back for doing a good job.
Gotta luv them tin ceilings!
