Help with Rotten framing bath floor.

Trying to put in new toilet and tile in the bathroom I pulled out everything and knew that there would be some water damage to the floor but what I found was the framing that is on the first joist to the right is rotten on the bottom and it sits on top of 1 by 8 also rotted the joist has a tiny bit of rot but I think it is still useableafter asking some home depo guys they said to remove the bad and put in good. I live in a two story and the bath is on the first floor above the basement in the middle of the house next to the stairs I believe the stair landing is above the bathroom it was built in 1920. The first stud goes up into the wall and the other two support a window I would like to reapir/remove all three including the subfloor and deck below it and am having difficulty figguring out how to do it. The bath area there is the size of a regular bathtub no more no less and it sits under a built in arch of lap? and plaster.
I am not using support because I simply dont know how to get it under the arch correctly. This is the outside wall and you can see the top of the basement wall below it between the basement wall and on each side of the joist are large nuts I assume to hold the frame of the 2nd floor door landing on the outside of the house the space on the right will allow for a 2x4 but not on the left. Anything will be appreciated greatly and thanks in advance for the help.

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/44/l_1ed5407b45e3489b86a95b0b2078b9bc.jpg


Update - I bought a sawzall and cut out the rotten frames and about 4 inches of the two studs and here is a picture of that.

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/44/l_09422c8ccee44dfeac21c58cb0a3e570.jpg

Welcome Aleusia:
You are correct to remove all wood that shows any sign of rot or that is 'pithy' crumbling or dry-rotted.
After replacing all the trouble spots, it would be well to use plywood or Underlayment Grade Tounge and Groove OSB. Then you can proceed with appropriate floor covering and resetting the fixtures.
Glenn

If you are replacing partial supports you might want to consider sandwiching it between two longer pieces of lumber. That could help shore up the break.

Update I have replaced the bottom framing member and put in blocks under where I had cut the rotten wood nailed and screwed them together with a steel nail plate, then I nailed one sister to the existing frame ( hope one was enough can't go back) I put up insulation and covered it with 6mil poly. I put the 6 mil poly on the floor then cement backer board I have already tiled the floor waited 24 hrs and have put in the grout.

Found a leak coming from upstairs window sill draining right down to this rotten spot in the bath.




Thank you for all your help!

One thing I noticed, and tell me if I am mistaken, Did you install plastic over the paper based insulation?
The paper and plastic each are a vapor barrier, and you should only have one.
So either take the plastic down, or remove the paper.
By having both paper and plastic you could cause serious moisture damage, especially in a bathroom.

Glad we could help.

Hiyas Inspector,

I remembered that at the last minute, It was very easy to pull off the paper so the answer is no, I did not use paper against plastic I had thought about scoring it and turning it outward but decided against it, because the box knives seem to dull quickly. Sorry the infrared pics make everything look like paper. I user r30 not sure what that did to the r factor but it dosent seem to matter the bath is much much warmer than with none. LOL

I love this place you all are so nice to talk to!

I was looking for the place to post my next delimma but I don't seem to know where so I will just ask....when I put the tub in on the level stringer of course the floor is not level and slanting toward us and now I have a nice gap at the bottom of the tub 3/4 " on the left to 1/2" on the right drain side. I have the front temporarily on pieces of wood and it is perfectly level.... question is what should I really put under it and what do I cover the gap with...extra floor tiles or do they make something specifically for this?

Thanks again!

Glad we can help,
You can use anything moisture resistant to shim it up, just make sure it is continuos and fully supported. I staer away from pressure treated because it will shrink.
When I do a tile floor, it is fully a 5/8 thick mud/thinset slab to start.
I also stick wire mess in there to hold it together, then I tile right on that.

Post this question in the tile section when you are going to start, you will get more replies from the professional tile folks.