Gutters placed too high?

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D725A

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5 years ago we had vinyl siding and gutters installed, now we're doing the roof. Looking at the attached pictures, it seems to me the gutters were placed too high. Even if the new roof eave edge was trimmed back from where it is now gutters seem high.

When they did the job they wrapped a white aluminum coil around the fascia which had a gap in it. If this coil completely wrapped around the fascia I'd feel the wood was protected enough; if not then it seems the gutters would have to be taken down and a new coil installed. Or does it appear to the viewer that given all the other buildup around the gutter that the rainwater would not penetrate the old wood? (Hard to see i know from the below.)

It has occurred to me that given all the other aluminum moldings up there it might be a major job to lower the gutters. We have had a dripping issue either from between gutter and fascia or from clogged slits in the waterfall gutter guard.

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The gutter looks like it could be moved without to much trouble. My first concern would be the soffet vents or lack of them. If that is a problem it should be addressed at the same time.
 
Thanks; going to be a sealed attic, so no soffit or other vents.
 
Sealed attic? You gotta have some venting or your roof will fail prematurely and your utility bills will be high.
 
Thanks but that's a debate for another thread. Sealed attics have been done successfully for years. The wear and tear on the shingles has been determined to be minimal from the research I've done. Roof color is important though.

Re: the gutters, I have been advised that the gutter is placed high at the pictured end, and that the shingles protrude too deeply into the gutter. I know this is also debated. Seems like about an inch is generally accepted.
 
Thanks alot, makes sense to me. Hard sometimes to navigate between the various opinions. One roofer told me two inches in gives protection against water adhering back under the shingle 'surface tension"? i forget. But seems to me if shingles in too far, then they will eventually curl up from wind etc and then the water will slow and Then could be pulled under shingle. Seems that hanging shingles also cover alot of water collecting area of any gutter guard installed and makes it hard to get a hand in there to clean. Maybe they think a driving rain will push under a shingle that's only over drip edge by half inch?
 
If you use a dedicated starter shingle and nail it 3" up from the fascia, you will not have a problem with wind lifting or rain being driven up under the 1 st course of shingles. Curling and cracking on the lower edge will not be an issue also.
 
Yup; I have seen the discussions on sealed attics, Hopefully you will let us know how that works out. I think I'm still with kok328 but, what the hell. I think I would look at a spacer and another sheeting, so you could have your sealed attic and a vented deck too.
 
Agreed Neal. I did check out installing a nailbase, made by another company that adds polyiso insulation and a small air space. Cost was just prohibitive. I've chosen a light-colored reflective roof. Probably won't insulate until next year; I will post my results.
 
When we hand frame a cathedral ceiling we us 2x10s for rafters so there is plenty of room for insulation and air flow above. Lots of older houses have attic rooms with insulation stuffed up against the deck with poor results.
http://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Cathedral_Ceiling_Ventilation.php
You could add to your rafters on the inside to give you air space. then you could use a vented drip edge and a ridge vent.
http://www.google.ca/search?q=vente...wKU8oCADQ&sqi=2&ved=0CFcQsAQ&biw=1016&bih=523
 

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