Tub faucet leak when shower is on?

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Nope, different thing. My shower has a hot and cold knob, and a knob in the center that's bathtub when turned all the way to the right and shower when turned all the way to the left. That's the knob I had to remove to get to the diverter.
 
Is this the same thing to do with a pull down faucet? Mine is cheap plastic and the water control is not a hot and a cold. It is a rotatin temp. control above the faucet.

with those you replace the faucet spout. They either unscrew or have a set screw in the bottom near the wall that locks them in place.

With you saying pull down you may have a Delta RP17453 which I consider a very good one.
 
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Lava, your problem sounds exactly like what I'm facing. Which wrench did you need to remove the center shower/faucet selector knob? And did you use any sealant on the O-rings?
 
There's a special tool you have to buy to remove the diverter, but it's really cheap at Lowes, around $5. It's an aluminum tube with a hex end on it, and you use a screwdriver through holes in the other end to turn it. Nothing else really fits. I did not use any sealant on the o-rings, and I don't even have any drips now.
 
I stumbled across this forum searching for a fix to the same problem. I did find a loose screw when I took the spout off and after reattaching it, my water pressure from the tub faucet was great. However, the shower is still very weak and I'm not sure how to tackle that. Any advice? Thanks.
 
If your shower is weak and the tub strong as long as the diverter is not leaking excessively I would unscrew the showerhead and check the restrictor for debris.

Some leakage through the diverter is a good thing as it allows the shower riser to drain down and the diverter to release when the shower is shut off. This eliminates the cold surprise....:eek:
 
Hi there,
I have the same issue: the water continues to come out of the faucet when the diverter is fully engaged. I have a 1/2 copper pipe at the faucet. SO... I went to Lowes, purchased a replacement faucet that will go on a 1/2 copper pipe AND a threaded pipe. I applied the "adapter" & o ring onto the copper pipe as per the instructions and tried to tighten the extension tube onto the adapter but cannot get it fully tightened because the retainer ring screw has penetrated the threads on the extension tube and this causes the extension tube to jump off the threads of the adapter when it reaches the hole caused by the retainer screw. BTY the hole was intentionally created so that the retainer ring can be tightened onto the copper pipe. SO... I decided to put the original faucet back on until I could research this problem. However... now (old faucet is re-installed) when I apply the diverter, water spews out of the back of the faucet towards the wall. What have I missed or done wrong? I have tightened the retainer screw well.

Thank you!
 
You have probably damaged the o-ring inside the adapter from a burr on the edge of the tube.
 
Well rats! The old faucet came off all in one piece and the o ring must be either stuck inside there or gone. The copper pipe seems pretty smooth but the calcium build-up might have torn the o-ring.

Any suggestions regarding installing the new "universal" faucet using the adapter and extension tube that does not seem to fully tighten? The water squirts back at the wall when the new one is installed but I assumed it was because I cannot get it fully flush with the end of the adapter threads.

The directions say to cut the copper tube no longer than 2 inches from the wall before installing the new faucet. While I have a copper tube cutter and can easily do that, I was worried about doing that before ensuring that I can get the new faucet on and leak free first. Does it damage the o ring to slide the faucet on and off?

Thanks!:confused:
 
I'm not sure where you are at and what you have.

If the new spout threads on teflon tape with teflon dope applied over it then threaded on you should be leak free. The connection does need to be tightened as the pipe threads are tapered. If the stub out is too long or, too short the length of the stub out has to be changed.

If you are using a slip on tub spout the stub out has to be within the length specified in the instructions and the end should be beveled or deburred so the o-ring inside the spout is not damaged when putting the spout on. then the locking screw is tightened securing the spout in place against the wall.
 
Thanks. You sure seem to be a major reason why this web site is beneficial!

The new faucet has an adapter (plastic) that provides for threading the faucet on it over the copper tubing. I think I understand you to say that a)fully threaded b)teflon taped & puttied and c)copper end burr free should all provide for a leak free installation.

My problem is that the inner tube will not fully tighten onto the threaded adapter because of the hole created by the retainer ring screw. I must be doing something wrong because the instructions directed me to create this hole and clear out the excess plastic burr it created before installing the inner tube.

I have the original faucet back on after soaking it in vinegar and it is not currently leaking. Further, it is actually diverting to the shower head now. It would be great, however, to be able to change this out at some point!

Many thanks again for your contributions!
 
My problem is that the inner tube will not fully tighten onto the threaded adapter because of the hole created by the retainer ring screw. I must be doing something wrong because the instructions directed me to create this hole and clear out the excess plastic burr it created before installing the inner tube.

That's where you are losing me.

Usually all you do is slide it on and tighten the screw....

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