Durock Tile membrane

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doechsli

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I have a very small (5 x 7) bathroom that has the old hexagonal ceramic tiles on the floor. The underlayment of the floor is mortar probably a few inches thick. For the most part the tiles are unbroken and well adhered. I'd like to re-tile the floor but don't want to bust up the mortar bed and that whole mess. I ran across a product called Durock Tile Membrane and they advertise that it will work over existing ceramic tile to give you a good bond to the new tile. Anyone ever use this or familiar with it? I read a few reviews on Amazon and generally they were favorable. I am also fully aware of the height differential this will cause with the toilet flange and the doorway.
 
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hiztsoHU-LI[/ame]

I haven't used it but here is the how to.
 
I haven't used it but why not just rip it up and do it right? You will appreciate it more when its done, covering anything up never lasts along with making sure everything else works with it too.
 
Ripping it up requires busting out the mortar bed....beyond my skills and budget. I've seen experienced tile guys swear that tiling over tile is possible with good results.
 
It will work. I might take a sanding disk to it first to break the glaze.

A few threads down there is a similar thread about tile and I suggested another material you might want to look at that product also.
 
I have tiled over tile in a shower floor that was set on thick concrete. In that case, I had no choce due to access and budget limitations. Actually, I removed a prior layer of tile that had been added to the original tile floor! I used a chipper to remove the layer, used an angle grinder to make sure the glaze and remaining thinset were gone.

Then I retiled per usual. It came out really nice with no problems or loose tiles. :D
 
doechsli said:
I've seen experienced tile guys swear that tiling over tile is possible with good results.

Yes it is and can be done, but you said......

doechsli said:
For the most part the tiles are unbroken and well adhered.

What does that mean?

Jaz
 
By that comment I mean there are about three tiles that are cracked behind the toilet. I believe at one time there was some sort of a cabinet or something there or possibly broken during a toilet swap.. The tiles are not in a traffic area and are still tightly adhered to the mortar base. That was one of the appeals of the membrane was the "crack isolation"........I cannot find any other broken or loose tiles in the entire room. I can provide pictures if that is of any value.
 
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The only down side I see is the buildup of thickness. If that’s not an issue and the tiles are fairly level to each other where there won’t be an issue getting the surface of the backer to be a nice smooth surface for the new tile, I would say go for it. With never doing this before I can’t say if the thinner coating they rolled on is better than the other system with troweling is better. I also like the idea of taking a grinder to the old tile to give it some tooth. Is that needed I don’t know.
 
OK, this is "new school" but have you looked at Redgard? It is a roll-on application which is water proof (three coats). This allows you to re-tile on a good surface without major buildup. You can also use it in the shower to seal cement board (apply fibre tape in the corners and Redgard over the tape.

This eliminate bashing out the existing floor! It gives you a secure undercoat onto which you can apply your thinset and new tile. Might be a game changer for you!

http://floorelf.com/installing-redgard-on-shower-walls-for-tile
 
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