Temporary Wall

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monosierra

monosierra

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Hi,

What is the best way to attach a temporary wall to an existing wall with minimal damage to the existing wall?

Thanks!
 
Assuming this is a real question, and the answer isn't duct tape, we would need some more information. What kind of walls? How big? How long will they be joined? and many more.
 
Welcome to the site, built many never have attached one to the existing wall, some more detail if you can.
 
Thanks!

We are serious indeed but are very inexperienced. Basically we are trying to partition an existing room into two smaller rooms using a simple OSB partition. For now we are thinking of gluing 2 layers of 23/32" 4x8' OSB panels with Green Glue to form the bulk of the partition, with wardrobes and bookshelves covering up the rest.

What we are not sure of now is 1) Whether the OSB panels are strong enough to support the weight of 2 doors, and 2) How can the partition be anchored to the existing wall without damaging it. Or will its weight and geometry give enough support.

I've attached a diagram of what we are trying to do.

Thanks!

Prototype.jpg
 
So you are trying to divide a bedroom in half with out damage to walls floor or ceiling? And you would like some some soundproofing?
What were you thinking of for doors?
 
Because you are building two walls in the shape of a L they will help to support each other. I would suggest moving the hinges to the other side at least the one on the 12’ wall to gain support from the L.

I think you want to divide one room into two but want to do it in such a way it will be easily reversed. If that is the case I would only attach this in place very minimally. If it is going to be a part of the home long term then I would suggest building real walls even if you use 2x3 for the walls to gain a little room.
 
nealtw said:
So you are trying to divide a bedroom in half with out damage to walls floor or ceiling? And you would like some some soundproofing?
What were you thinking of for doors?
Click to expand...

Thanks! Indeed we are trying to divide a bedroom into two smaller bedrooms with minimal damage.

For doors, we are thinking of either buying a 1) regular door and a frame, 2) a pre-hung door (probably too heavy) or 3) an accordion door (cheap, light, but not as secure) from Home Depot.

We could make our own door, if there is a big saving, but that is the last option.

Would you advice on any type of door that best works with such a partition?

Thanks again!
 
bud16415 said:
Because you are building two walls in the shape of a L they will help to support each other. I would suggest moving the hinges to the other side at least the one on the 12’ wall to gain support from the L.

I think you want to divide one room into two but want to do it in such a way it will be easily reversed. If that is the case I would only attach this in place very minimally. If it is going to be a part of the home long term then I would suggest building real walls even if you use 2x3 for the walls to gain a little room.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the hinge advice!

We do want to be able to move the partition around - partly because a real wall would require permits and meet zoning regulations.

Another forum suggested some kind of foam gasket material to bridge the gap between wall and partition. Is there any other way to attach the two minimally?

Thanks again!
 
What you are really wanting is almost like floor to ceiling office partitioning.

On the cheap I would just build a frame out of 2x2 and cover with cheap luan floor underlayment and paint or cheap thin paneling. I would not attach it at all and just let the L shape keep it in place. Sound is going to travel no matter what you do. Is the room to break up two kids bedrooms? As to doors they have really nice pretty light formed doors that look like 4 panel doors they are really inexpensive frame out a little frame and attach a couple hinges.
 
A pre-hung door will be sized for a standard 2x4 built wall. so you may have significant adjustments to make with that.
If you plan on a snug fit on all four sides (top, bottom & sides), your best bet is to build in place. But that would be difficult without attaching to the existing walls
You could support the walls further by adding a molding at the top, opposite the small wall (see quick diagram).


I'm kind of stuck on the word 'temporary'. How long are the walls going to be up? Would you have a need to take them down in a hurry?

tempwall support.jpg
 
nealtw said:
So you are trying to divide a bedroom in half with out damage to walls floor or ceiling? And you would like some some soundproofing?
What were you thinking of for doors?
Click to expand...

Thanks! You are totally right on what we are trying to do.

For doors, we are considering a lightweight door for now, such as accordion doors. We compromise on privacy but save on weight/cost. Obviously this is not a long term solution but should do for a prototype. Do you think we should just make our own door (We do have access to table saws and other fabrication facilities in school).
 
bud16415 said:
What you are really wanting is almost like floor to ceiling office partitioning.

On the cheap I would just build a frame out of 2x2 and cover with cheap luan floor underlayment and paint or cheap thin paneling. I would not attach it at all and just let the L shape keep it in place. Sound is going to travel no matter what you do. Is the room to break up two kids bedrooms? As to doors they have really nice pretty light formed doors that look like 4 panel doors they are really inexpensive frame out a little frame and attach a couple hinges.
Click to expand...

Thanks! That's a great idea.

They are meant to be micro unit apartments though, not kids' rooms.

Are you describing a hollow cavity wall framed by 2x2s? Sorry if its a dumb question!
 
I have a plan, like Bud it would be built out of 2x2s or 2x4s on flat, fro stability there would have to be at least a 1x2 under the door to make it pressure fit you would have 2x2 against the finished wall and a 2x4 1" away from that with some appliance adjustable legs between that first 2x4 and 2x2 so they could be adjusted to push against the wall I would use dry wall and insulate it for sound. Regular pre-hung doors just leave the extra sticking into the room and apply molding around that.
I would install the two bookcases first and attach the wall to those.
No I have never built anything like this some may need some tweaking the adjusters near the doors will have to be at the very bottom and at the top of the door so they don't bend the door frame.
 
nealtw said:
I have a plan, like Bud it would be built out of 2x2s or 2x4s on flat, fro stability there would have to be at least a 1x2 under the door to make it pressure fit you would have 2x2 against the finished wall and a 2x4 1" away from that with some appliance adjustable legs between that first 2x4 and 2x2 so they could be adjusted to push against the wall I would use dry wall and insulate it for sound. Regular pre-hung doors just leave the extra sticking into the room and apply molding around that.
I would install the two bookcases first and attach the wall to those.
No I have never built anything like this some may need some tweaking the adjusters near the doors will have to be at the very bottom and at the top of the door so they don't bend the door frame.
Click to expand...

Thanks! What kind of sound insulation do you suggest? And would the doors simply swing from the studs?
 
I would just split 3 1/2" fiberglass in half but you never talked about the book cases and they won't be very soundproof.

I would you a full door frame either build your own or buy a pre-hung door. leave the frame sticking out one side and just mold around that. So when you dismantle it you will be able to sell them.
 
slownsteady said:
A pre-hung door will be sized for a standard 2x4 built wall. so you may have significant adjustments to make with that.
If you plan on a snug fit on all four sides (top, bottom & sides), your best bet is to build in place. But that would be difficult without attaching to the existing walls
You could support the walls further by adding a molding at the top, opposite the small wall (see quick diagram).


I'm kind of stuck on the word 'temporary'. How long are the walls going to be up? Would you have a need to take them down in a hurry?
Click to expand...

Thank you! I realize that a regular door would not work without a 2x4 stud wall or frame.
 
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