Okay what now?
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oldognewtrick
In memory of
Someone must of had an allergy to insulation also...
nealtw
Contractor retired
The header is interesting unless I'm missing something.
MorrisLowe321
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Exactly, be brief with the picture you posted what is the message in this ?
nealtw
Contractor retired
What is it besides wood in the cavity and is it everywhere in the house? Make the header 6" longer or the window smaller.
Hi Neal, i'm thinking to make new wall, then insulation. It is concrete and petrified wood.
Maybe spray insulation? Also the roof is about 4" empty. What i gather you can just use the spray insulation and fill it up, with no vents?
I see what you mean about the header. Originally the window would have been smaller. I think i need a carpenter for this job.
Maybe spray insulation? Also the roof is about 4" empty. What i gather you can just use the spray insulation and fill it up, with no vents?
I see what you mean about the header. Originally the window would have been smaller. I think i need a carpenter for this job.
nealtw
Contractor retired
You will have to find out if the whole house is built like this or if it was someones idea of a feature wall. My guess is that if it is all like this you will have to treat it more like a brick building. If that wall continues upstairs the header maybe should be a steel lentle.
I think you have to do more digging to find what you have a ware before you start fixing things. If they did that to every window they will all need fixing.
http://www.proudgreenhome.com/blog/6519/Building-a-rustic-home-with-cordwood-construction
I think you have to do more digging to find what you have a ware before you start fixing things. If they did that to every window they will all need fixing.
http://www.proudgreenhome.com/blog/6519/Building-a-rustic-home-with-cordwood-construction
Hi Neal, i will post some pics soon. But it is only the 2 bay 70x48" windows that this fellow DIY'ed, Actually the 2nd window is better. You can see the problem with the first already how he just broke it there.
I'm think is there no high tech fix for this? Why not just put a metal frame in there?
I guess the windows could be replaced. In that case with the as you say 6" sides, i would have to make the window smaller. 70"-12=58"
Just as well. But people around here like big windows, big cars etc.
I'm think is there no high tech fix for this? Why not just put a metal frame in there?
I guess the windows could be replaced. In that case with the as you say 6" sides, i would have to make the window smaller. 70"-12=58"
Just as well. But people around here like big windows, big cars etc.
Hi Neal, i will post some pics soon. But it is only the 2 bay 70x48" windows that this fellow DIY'ed, Actually the 2nd window is better. You can see the problem with the first already how he just broke it there.
I'm think is there no high tech fix for this? Why not just put a metal frame in there?
I guess the windows could be replaced. In that case with the as you say 6" sides, i would have to make the window smaller. 70"-12=58"
Just as well. But people around here like big windows, big cars etc.
I'm think is there no high tech fix for this? Why not just put a metal frame in there?
I guess the windows could be replaced. In that case with the as you say 6" sides, i would have to make the window smaller. 70"-12=58"
Just as well. But people around here like big windows, big cars etc.
nealtw
Contractor retired
(IF)there is little load above, you can get away with out a header. That would be if the ceiling joists and rafters don't land on this wall. That would require a wood framed gable end above the window. You may want to repost that photo in Bricks and Masonary. You may find people with more knowledge about this stuff.
staceybrown281
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For me, you should make a new window for your house just for your safety. And if not, you should call for help. It's not good at all.
I don't think it so bad. With the wood and concret the ceiling is supported already.
1) Take the windows out
2) Put the new support as it was the originally, red. The structural issue would be fixed at this point.
3) Metal elbow for extra support of the header.
4) Filling in with more supporting 2x4"
5) Put window in
6) Fix outside siding
7) New dry wall with straps
8) T&G oak finish
1) Take the windows out
2) Put the new support as it was the originally, red. The structural issue would be fixed at this point.
3) Metal elbow for extra support of the header.
4) Filling in with more supporting 2x4"
5) Put window in
6) Fix outside siding
7) New dry wall with straps
8) T&G oak finish
nealtw
Contractor retired
Angle brakets won't do anything. Pull the window add two 2x4s each side buy a window 6" smaller.
i was just thinking a wide plate of metal 4" x 75" screwed in the over the header would be a good idea.
Another thing i figured out... there is nothing really wrong with the windows! Is been like this for 20 years, the window still open flawlessly.
The whole problem is with rotten support beam causes why the missing flashing. Which causes the beam to sag and the attic floor to sag. Also causing the the wood panelling to bulge.
I should be able to raise the attic floor by taking the windows out and putting in a 2x4" , 1/4" + and just jam it up in the middle of the window. Then same with the support above and raise the floor a bit above.
So i don't know, maybe keep the existing window. They seem to be double pane glass not that bad really. E-ion would be much better.
Another thing i figured out... there is nothing really wrong with the windows! Is been like this for 20 years, the window still open flawlessly.
The whole problem is with rotten support beam causes why the missing flashing. Which causes the beam to sag and the attic floor to sag. Also causing the the wood panelling to bulge.
I should be able to raise the attic floor by taking the windows out and putting in a 2x4" , 1/4" + and just jam it up in the middle of the window. Then same with the support above and raise the floor a bit above.
So i don't know, maybe keep the existing window. They seem to be double pane glass not that bad really. E-ion would be much better.
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nealtw
Contractor retired
Like I said if you have a gable over this window and the ceiling joist don't land on this wall you really don't have to worry about the header.
When we finish a basement with concrete walls we build a new wall 1" away from the concrete. I don't know what they usually do in brick houses but foam sounds like an ideal.
When we finish a basement with concrete walls we build a new wall 1" away from the concrete. I don't know what they usually do in brick houses but foam sounds like an ideal.
Okay new plan. The structural can be fixed i believe with metal.
What do you guys think? I just talked to the owner and he says it was 30 years ago done professionally.
1. Fill in masonry on bottom with concrete and stone. patch up masonry.
2. Place support 2x4 in window
2. Drill pilot holes. and screw in metal cross plate of 4x74" and 1/4" thick. I think about 20-30 screws. Actually 1/4" is over kill, 1/8" is fine.
3. Nail in cross beam support above the window, on to old rot board and diagonally.
4. Finish with roxol above window. Order new windows to be replaced.
So guys, will this work? It's all strong fur wood, i was checking the rot it is only 1/4- 1/8" deep with a nail, not so bad.
I guess i have to find a metal shop?
What do you guys think? I just talked to the owner and he says it was 30 years ago done professionally.
1. Fill in masonry on bottom with concrete and stone. patch up masonry.
2. Place support 2x4 in window
2. Drill pilot holes. and screw in metal cross plate of 4x74" and 1/4" thick. I think about 20-30 screws. Actually 1/4" is over kill, 1/8" is fine.
3. Nail in cross beam support above the window, on to old rot board and diagonally.
4. Finish with roxol above window. Order new windows to be replaced.
So guys, will this work? It's all strong fur wood, i was checking the rot it is only 1/4- 1/8" deep with a nail, not so bad.
I guess i have to find a metal shop?
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