How to do the wiring to this center island?

farmerjohn1324 said:

They don't exist. I even tried specialty electrical stores.

But do you know what kind of glue to use? I honestly don't think they will be able to tell.

Click to expand...

PVC pipe/conduit in "general terms" for plumbing use or for electrical use - material used for making such parts are not the same nor do the materials used for for their individual uses provide the same type of protection for their use - Thus, "don't think they will be able to tell" does not fit. Research the differences between plumbing pvc and electrical pvc. Learn the reason why you should not use plumbing pvc instead of properly rated electrical pvc. You can start here for example. It boils down to safety.

farmerjohn1324 said:

They don't exist. I even tried specialty electrical stores.

But do you know what kind of glue to use? I honestly don't think they will be able to tell.

Click to expand...

We know you wont follow the directions of two electrical professionals. So in that case your question is how to glue two different types of PVC together electrical and plumbing.

I don’t think anyone here has done it.

I think you should get a can of both glues and smear the plumbing one on the white piece and the electrical one on the gray piece and then stick them together. I bet it will work.

If they don't exist. that's because what you are trying to do not permitted.

JoeD said:

If they don't exist. that's because what you are trying to do not permitted.

Click to expand...

What he’s looking for is one of these. https://www.graybar.com/store/en/gb/1-to-3-4-inch-carlon-schedule-40-pvc-conduit-reducing-bushing-88054620#{In (Inches):1 in.}&{Out (Inches):3/4 in.} and then one of these stuck in it. https://www.graybar.com/store/en/gb/3-4-to-1-2-inch-carlon-schedule-40-pvc-conduit-reducing-bushing-88054618#{In (Inches):3/4 in.}&{Out (Inches):1/2 in.}

He just doesn’t know where to get them.

bud16415 said:

What he’s looking for is one of these. https://www.graybar.com/store/en/gb/1-to-3-4-inch-carlon-schedule-40-pvc-conduit-reducing-bushing-88054620#{In (Inches):1 in.}&{Out (Inches):3/4 in.} and then one of these stuck in it. https://www.graybar.com/store/en/gb/3-4-to-1-2-inch-carlon-schedule-40-pvc-conduit-reducing-bushing-88054618#{In (Inches):3/4 in.}&{Out (Inches):1/2 in.}

He just doesn’t know where to get them.

Click to expand...

So I would have to get 2 bushings because I Googled and I don't think they go from 1" to 1/2".

Plus, the 1" side of those bushings doesn't fit around the 1" conduit. It is the same diameter, so it would need a coupling, anyway.

I know this because I bought one.

Okay so I have the 1"-3/4" bushing in the picture. I just bought 1" and 3/4" couplings from Home Depot. All I need is a 3/4"-1/2" bushing and I'm good to go.

They actually have bushings at Home Depot/Lowe's, but for some reason they are a hexagon on one side so they won't fit in a coupling.

I will check a local speciality electric shop tomorrow to see if they have what I need.

Also, the only reason regular PVC can't be used in place of PVC conduit is because of UV radiation. Not much of that going on under the sink, but I'll get the right parts anyway. With all these weird looking parts, an inspector might think something is weird, anyway.

Sometimes it's easier and cheaper to cut back and/or redo it with the right parts than to cobble something together out of all sorts of wrong parts. Trust me, I have done this and it is just a waste of time and money.

slownsteady said:

Sometimes it's easier and cheaper to cut back and/or redo it with the right parts than to cobble something together out of all sorts of wrong parts. Trust me, I have done this and it is just a waste of time and money.

Click to expand...

I got them all. That 3/4"-1/2" bushing is real loose on the 1/2" side. Fit better when it was a plumbing part, but hopefully it will be tight after it's glued.

Is there a rule about how much sheathings (of UF-B cable in this case) can be in the electrical box? You can see there is about 8" of one of the new ones inside this box. I could easily cut it off.

Don't know about a rule but when i rewired my house i left 3/4 inch sheeting showing just because i thought it looked good i also bent the blacks over an equal amount along with the neutrals and grounds. the inspector commented on how nice it looked.

tuffy said:

Don't know about a rule but when i rewired my house i left 3/4 inch sheeting showing just because i thought it looked good i also bent the blacks over an equal amount along with the neutrals and grounds. the inspector commented on how nice it looked.

Click to expand...

Neatness counts. :thbup:

More issues than the unsheathed portion of the UF concerned here.

1/4-3/4" approximately unsheathed to leave where any sheathed cable enter a panel is usually good rule.

A - having bare ground wires just floating around in the panel like that just could cause a major flashshort when putting the panel cover back on. Notice how close it is to the hot bus. The back of the panel cover may push the ground wire to close to the bus.

B - Tight radius bends of conductors not a good idea and against code

C - Should have a plastic bushing on this connector end to protect the cable

D - This looks like a three wire with ground. Is this cable feeding this panel making this panel a sub-panel or is this cable going out to another panel. If this is a sub-panel you have your neutrals and grounds wrong. Can't quite tell by the picture you have (not entire panel) but it looks like a GE. The neutral bar on left seems isolated from panel but looking at the ground bar on the right it seems to be the same type of isolated bar as the left (normally connected with a bar at the top connecting both right and left). If the bar on the right is indeed isolated and the bar/strap is in place at the top and connects both right and left bars and this is a sub-panel it is wired incorrectly. Grounds and neutrals to be separate in a sub.

How do I wire this outlet that's for the garbage disposal, which then leads to the GFCI on the exterior of the island?

There will be 3 wires coming from the box marked blue. The garbage disposal outlet will be the box marked red.

Is it:

1. One neutral to each silver, one black to each brass, pigtail the grounds, or...

2. Pigtail the neutrals to just one silver, pigtail both blacks to one brass, pigtail the grounds to the ground screw?

I would make a pig tail for all and just go one blck, wht and g to each outlet. To the screws you said.

Your question is very confusing

If you are saying that there will be "power" coming from the blue box to the red box then wire from blue to GFCI line (red box) line. Then from Gfci red box line go to GFCI on island. This way if GFCI for GD trips no need to go under cabinet to reset. Save a few bucks and wire from GD "load" to regular receptacle in island. The only need one GFCI.

afjes_2016 said:

Your question is very confusing

If you are saying that there will be "power" coming from the blue box to the red box then wire from blue to GFCI line (red box) line. Then from Gfci red box line go to GFCI on island. This way if GFCI for GD trips no need to go under cabinet to reset. Save a few bucks and wire from GD "load" to regular receptacle in island. The only need one GFCI.

Click to expand...

Should it look like A or B?

afjes_2016 said:

Your question is very confusing

If you are saying that there will be "power" coming from the blue box to the red box then wire from blue to GFCI line (red box) line. Then from Gfci red box line go to GFCI on island. This way if GFCI for GD trips no need to go under cabinet to reset. Save a few bucks and wire from GD "load" to regular receptacle in island. The only need one GFCI.

Click to expand...

But I think they like to see a GFCI on the exterior of the island.

First off a little "terminology" correction here. Even electricians mix this terminology here and there. A "pigtail" is a section of wire that is curled like a "pig's tail", thus the name. Such as the section of wire from a GFCI or AFCI breaker that goes to the neutral bar. A short section of wire that is connected to a wire nut or other means connecting like wire together to extended or otherwise connect those set of wires together is a "jumper" wire, not really a pigtail.

In your A and B. Either one in this case is fine if I am following your thought pattern correctly. This is so far into thought now and the post is so old it is getting harder and harder to follow it.

Meantime, if you use a jumper from your hots to the brass side of the receptacle and the same with the neutrals to your silver side and the ground as the same method this is fine in this case. This is my preferred method. Meaning if for any reason the receptacle should fail there will still be a continuity of power/neutral going to the receptacle on the counter. If the shut off/on switch is independent of the receptacle that powers the GD then this method should be fine.

Because this receptacle is upline from the counter/island receptacle it can in theory and in code feed the receptacle that you refer to and protect it if a GFCI receptacle is used in the GD box. The receptacle it is protecting in this case the counter/island can be labeled "GFCI protected" which will pass code and does everyday. Not a matter that they want to see a GFCI over the counter or on the counter or elsewhere code only dictates that it must be GFCI protected. But in the case out of logic and practicality it would be best to use a GFCI receptacle for the GD and run your wires from line side of that receptacle to the one on the counter/island and put another one there. Reason simply if done the other way you would have to reach under and in the cabinet each time the GFCI may trip to reset it, where the counter/island being a GFCI receptacle itself you simply just reset it.

Another side note: It is very difficult for me to see where your LTight etc is going from and to and the other wires etc so I can not tell if the rest is wired correctly, I am just going by this specific question in my answer.