LED fixture: hardwired to three-prong plug

Hello, I'm new here. I know this question has been asked before but it seems like the details may lead to different recommendations so here we go. I want to convert a hardwired three bulb LED fixture to use a three-pronged plug. It will be mounted on the wall in my pantry (which also houses the washer and dryer on the opposite wall) and plugged into an outlet I had installed high up on the wall by a licensed electrician. I have no expertise apart from having rewired a few lamps and using a UL knot.

-- Plug cord wires: green, white and white, all copper color.
-- Fixture wires: yellow/green, black and white, all silver color.

Assuming yellow/green goes to green, how do I connect the others? Does it matter? I am familiar with how to join them using a wire nut, FYI. Here are pictures. Hope they are not too big.

Yes it matters. The black on the light fixture is the hot and white is the neutral. You have to identify the hot and neutral on the cord whip. The left possibly wider blade on the plug is the neutral the right or narrow blade in the plug is the hot. If the cord is not molded to allow you to visually trace the blade to the wire end then you will need a digital volt/ohm meter to identify hit from common. Also the wire nut connections must be house inside the light fixture with friction guards and/or strain relief.

Thank you kok328. This plug doesn't have a wider blade and I can't visually trace the lines to the blades so I'm off to get a volt/ohm meter. Thankfully the Home Depot is not en route to any kind of mall. Black Friday.

Putterer said:

Thank you kok328. This plug doesn't have a wider blade and I can't visually trace the lines to the blades so I'm off to get a volt/ohm meter. Thankfully the Home Depot is not en route to any kind of mall. Black Friday.

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Generally, suppliers of these cords will texture the cord wrap for one of the conductors, which is visible and can be felt.
The conductor with-in the textured wrap, is the neutral.

I didn't notice any texture on the plug cord at first, but on closer inspection there is a slight texture on one side. Under magnification, it's a bit of repeated embossed information about the UL number, the gauge, volts and "green conductor for grounding only". Would that be considered the textured side?

As it turns out, I have no idea how to use the multimeter and this is AFTER reading the instructions.

Putterer said:

I didn't notice any texture on the plug cord at first, but on closer inspection there is a slight texture on one side. Under magnification, it's a bit of repeated embossed information about the UL number, the gauge, volts and "green conductor for grounding only". Would that be considered the textured side?

As it turns out, I have no idea how to use the multimeter and this is AFTER reading the instructions.

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Not my experience. The texture is a forming function and runs from the cord head to the pigtail end.

Regarding your meter, it should have signage that denotes particular functions. When you select the function denoted by an inverted "U" or earphones and touch the bare ends of the leads together, the meter should deflect to the right limit or in the case of a digital meter, read "000", this is resistance, or continuity and continuity is what you are interested in.

The "texture" on the cord is actually more like a ridge or square edge that's molded into the length of the insulation on one of the wires. When you run your finger along the cord, one wire will feel rounded and the other will have a ridge.
Although having a multimeter is a good idea, I don't think you'll need it for this project unless you have to troubleshoot.
Are you planning on reaching up and plugging in this light every time you go into the pantry? seems a bit awkward. At least, you can put an in-line switch right where you're going to join these wires, or even better, install a switch in the pantry and hard wire the light to it.
A question for the group: do we have to worry that only one side of this connection is copper??

Snoonyb said:

When you select the function denoted by an inverted "U" or earphones and touch the bare ends of the leads together, the meter should deflect to the right limit or in the case of a digital meter, read "000", this is resistance, or continuity and continuity is what you are interested in.

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Thanks, Snoony, this is helpful.

slownsteady said:

The "texture" on the cord is actually more like a ridge or square edge that's molded into the length of the insulation on one of the wires. When you run your finger along the cord, one wire will feel rounded and the other will have a ridge.

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Ah, thank you! That is the case. It was extremely subtle. This pic was shot through a magnifying glass:

slownsteady said:

TAre you planning on reaching up and plugging in this light every time you go into the pantry?

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The electrical box is already wired up to the switch outside the pantry door. Basically I'm supplementing the light that is already in the pantry because I added shelves that are quite deep and the existing sconce is wan and poorly placed. I have been using an aluminum clip-on utility light for far too long.

You all have been a huge help. I think I'll be able to finish this today. Will post another pic of the before and after.

Putterer said:

Thanks, Snoony, this is helpful.

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What you have is a non-discrimintory cord and were I you, I would discard it or return it, and replace it with a discriminatory cord.

The new recepticle you are having installed will have a smaller and larger slot, plus a ground hole, so for the safety of the fixture you should use a cord that is discriminatory.

There is a simple rule in recepticle wiring; In a correctly wired recepticle, when you are viewing the face of the recepticle, with the ground stake down, the slot on the right is hot and a discriminatory cord will follow.

Never heard it called that "discriminatory". I refer to them as polarized and unpolarized recptacles and plugs. He has an unpolarized plug with a ground prong that forces the correct orientation of polarity in both a polarized and unpolarized receptacle. No need for a new plug or receptacle of wired correctly.

Seems like a good place to use shrink tubing to insulate the splices.

kok328 said:

Never heard it called that "discriminatory". I refer to them as polarized and unpolarized recptacles and plugs. He has an unpolarized plug with a ground prong that forces the correct orientation of polarity in both a polarized and unpolarized receptacle. No need for a new plug or receptacle of wired correctly.

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When you are dealing with a homeowner that when you say "polarized", they ask which is north, you learn to speak to their level of understanding, where they can "see" the difference, and comprehend.It's the KISS principal.