Now I understand, and you were correct in your first assumption, in that the small end of the slop ends even with the outside of the double top plate.
Opening up a wall
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Now I understand, and you were correct in your first assumption, in that the small end of the slop ends even with the outside of the double top plate.
nealtw
Contractor retired
I found this write up on beams @
http://myconco.com/ComEngProb.html
And this is what he said
Think twice before cutting beams
It's easy to pull out a saw and cut off the top corner of a beam that must be kept beneath a roofline. But if too much cross section is removed, shear forces can cause the beam to split and eventually to fail. For solid-sawn beams, you should leave at least half the width of the beam above the supporting wall and confine the length of the tapered cut to no more than three times the original width of the beam. If you don't have room to leave this much cross section, your best bet is to lower the beam (set it in a pocket) or have a tapered beam engineered.
Using this and asuming a house this old will have 2x4 rafters with that birdmouth, figure out the largest beam that could be installed and tell us it would be big enough to carry the unknown load.
nealtw
Contractor retired
We don't know where this house ius or what the snow load might be and you are ready to suggest a beam, great.
I don't know this guy either and can not argue that he is right, but he is a home inspector, so if he sees something like this, his suggestion will be to get an engineers report.
If the OP is getting a permit, which he should do as thius is an important change to the house. the city will just say get and an engineer to sign off on it.
If an engineer puts his 30 yr garrentee stamp on it there is nothing more to talk about. But you can not take that to the next job. The next job needs an engieers report of it's own.
Experience around engineering does not help in this case unless you are prepared to put your stamp on the drawings.
I don't know this guy either and can not argue that he is right, but he is a home inspector, so if he sees something like this, his suggestion will be to get an engineers report.
If the OP is getting a permit, which he should do as thius is an important change to the house. the city will just say get and an engineer to sign off on it.
If an engineer puts his 30 yr garrentee stamp on it there is nothing more to talk about. But you can not take that to the next job. The next job needs an engieers report of it's own.
Experience around engineering does not help in this case unless you are prepared to put your stamp on the drawings.
Absolutely, years of experience, a low slope roof ranch style const.
What do think the snow load, if any, would be.
Sure it's a natural response to relieve liability, because a housing inspector is a specialty license for a specific function.
The requirement to have an engineers stamped plan is jurisdictional, some do, some do not.
When the municipality is confident in the competency of their inspectors, within certain perameters, they do not.
Another consideration that can influence that decision is the time it delays the project and the increased cost.
Some municipalities are obstructionist and some are advocates.
He may have opened his business yesterday, and the requirement is jurisdictional.
It has and will continue to serve me well.
nealtw
Contractor retired
But yoiu are ready to suggest the right beam and it modify it to fit without knowing the dead load of the roof or snow load for the location, no questions about point loads landing on interior point of foundation.
That's not cute, it's nuts.
So, was the addition of the snow loads, to these that I've answered;"Me too. A 2x4 rafter with a 1' birdsmouth will have 2 1/2 inches on the outside of the wall for the beam and the angle cut on a 14"would be 16" long on a 6/12 pitch and longer with a lower pitch roof. I havn't found anything to do with this on the net.
Using this and asuming a house this old will have 2x4 rafters with that birdmouth, figure out the largest beam that could be installed and tell us it would be big enough to carry the unknown load", if there are any, generally instructional, or simply pointing out that those forces would have already been factored into the existing structure.
Why would I question the existing which would come into play in either scenario.
You are free to use the internet as your base for experience.
I'll use my hands on as my basis.
You may not have realized that much of what we have been discussing is only relevant when the roof structure is a hip, not a gable.
Just another unknown.
nealtw
Contractor retired
I wonder why sometimes they call for extra big footings under pointloads.
Maybe you could explain their reasoning.
Or, you could.
I'd prefer that the OP absorb and assemble a plan from the alternatives presented, decide a plan of attack, prepare a rudimentary drawing and proceed to the local building dept.
And then return with a refined question.
nealtw
Contractor retired
perhaps that should have been your first suggestion when it was determined that it was a bearing wall.
And deprive them of the alternatives presented, the cruxt of the reason they visit.
nealtw
Contractor retired
That would be great if the discussion actually covered all the things the engineer or permit department will want to question before making a suggestion on what they think should be done.
If they do, and only time will tell.
