Why does my pool remain green after multiple shock treatments?

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Because of the west coast water shortage, Leslie's pool supply no longer advocate draining all your water, and most recommend only dumping out half the water at a time. I don't think you are worried about the pool caving in, but a pool will heave upward with a high water table. Draining only half the water will stop all heaving. If you are worried about power use, you have only one option, filling the hole with dirt. Even ponds need to run a pump to circulate the water.
 
since you're concerned with the water table being high enough to cause the pool to heave, here's how to determine if you have a high water table
Get a 10 ft section of 1.5 dia pvc an glue an adapter to one end that will allow you to connect a water hose to it . hold the pipe vertical to the ground with the open end to the ground , and turn on the water. The water pressure will wash away the dirt from around the pvc pipe and it will gradually work itself into the ground
Once you get about 9 ft of it into the ground, turn off the water and disconnect the hose, cut off the fitting so that you have a straight pipe into the ground, then get a piece or rope with a weight attached and while holding onto the free end of the rope, drop the weighted end into the pipe. mark the rope where it enters the pipe and withdraw it, measure from the top of where the rope is wet to the marked place.
If the dry area measurement is 5 ft or more then you have no worries of the pool popping out of the ground.
 
elbo said:
since you're concerned with the water table being high enough to cause the pool to heave, here's how to determine if you have a high water table
Get a 10 ft section of 1.5 dia pvc an glue an adapter to one end that will allow you to connect a water hose to it . hold the pipe vertical to the ground with the open end to the ground , and turn on the water. The water pressure will wash away the dirt from around the pvc pipe and it will gradually work itself into the ground
Once you get about 9 ft of it into the ground, turn off the water and disconnect the hose, cut off the fitting so that you have a straight pipe into the ground, then get a piece or rope with a weight attached and while holding onto the free end of the rope, drop the weighted end into the pipe. mark the rope where it enters the pipe and withdraw it, measure from the top of where the rope is wet to the marked place.
If the dry area measurement is 5 ft or more then you have no worries of the pool popping out of the ground.
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I knew an old timer that used to claim jetting a pipe in the ground like that relieved the underground pressure of the water. He would go around jetting these pipes along a foundation wall that had a leak and the leak would go away or lessen. I never was quite sure if he was on to something or not but people claimed it worked.
 
after I moved from Miami to Tampa, I tried to get a contractor to sink a 2 inch irrigation well. None were willing to do anything less than 4 inch with an accompanying price hike (of course ) I read an article on how to jet a shallow well , and decided to try it. It worked, and except for the cost of the pump , cost very little
 
I forgot to mention that you will have to wait until the water in the pipe from jetting it drains before you take that measurement. Google drilling or jetting a shallow well , lots of info there
Did you ever get the pool straightened out ?
 
Unless, of course, you happen to be right over a rock.
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Yes and I will add that everyplace is different when it comes to putting in a shallow well. If your really serious about doing one, I recommend going to Mikes site: http://www.drillyourownwell.com/
I have been a Well Driller since 1958 and wouldn't advise using just one method.
 
After having 3 pages of responses to farmerjohns problem, it would be nice if he posted what he did to resolve the problem, including photos, Unfortunately, so many people ask for help with their problems but never give any feed back
 
elbo said:
After having 3 pages of responses to farmerjohns problem, it would be nice if he posted what he did to resolve the problem, including photos, Unfortunately, so many people ask for help with their problems but never give any feed back
Click to expand...

He might be busy with the other 20 threads he has on other projects. :(
 
elbo said:
After having 3 pages of responses to farmerjohns problem, it would be nice if he posted what he did to resolve the problem, including photos, Unfortunately, so many people ask for help with their problems but never give any feed back
Click to expand...

He's having trouble getting that new pencil to work.
 
Here's the update: (I wanted to wait until after the storm was gone)...

I just added EIGHT gallons of 10% chlorine and it's still green even though the pump has been running all night.

I'm putting my timer issues on hold until I can actually get the pool blue and swimmable.

I suppose the answer is just to keep adding chlorine. I will throw in another 8 gallons today.

Could it be a filter problem? I just cleaned the skimmer and it was very dirty.

Can someone explain the parts of my pool system to me?

What are the two pipes going into the pump? I realize it's water from the pool, but why two? There's only one skimmer.

What is the purpose of the blue hose in between the pump and the filter?

There are two pipes exiting the filter. I'm assuming one goes to each inlet because there are two inlets.

IMG_20161009_084655096_HDR.jpg
 
You need to quit dumping chlorine into that pool until you understand how the system works. Seems you have a diatomaceous filter (DE) and the thin blue hose is set up to backwash your system. Hire a pool guy for a one time learning, and he will show you how to split the filter, clean out the filter, how to add DE earth, and how to perform a backwash properly. You have two inlets because you have a drain at the bottom of the pool and a skimmer at the top of the pool. I'm sure with all that stuff you've been dumping into your pool, you will probably have to drain the pool and start over... and adding the proper amount of chlorine.
 
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havasu said:
You need to quit dumping chlorine into that pool until you understand how the system works. Seems you have a diatomaceous filter (DE) and the thin blue hose is set up to backwash your system. Hire a pool guy for a one time learning, and he will show you how to split the filter, clean out the filter, how to add DE earth, and how to perform a backwash properly. You have two inlets because you have a drain at the bottom of the pool and a skimmer at the top of the pool. I'm sure with all that stuff you've been dumping into your pool, you will probably have to drain the pool and start over... and adding the proper amount of chlorine.
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Okay well I'll let a professional drain it because I've seen pools cave in.

I just read how to clean DE filters. Google says to turn the valve that's just above the hose to the backwash position and wait until the water coming out of the hose is clear. It is clear right away.

Can you explain the positions of each valve? There are two valves.

1. The valve above the blue hose. It has three positions. It's normally in the center. When I turn to the left, I assume this is the backwash position and it lets water out of the hose. When I turn to the right, the only difference I see is that the water level goes down in the pot in front of the pool pump.

2. There is another valve in front of the pool pump. When turned to the left, I don't see or hear a difference. When turned to the right, I can see water level in the pot go down.

Do you mind explaining why adding 24 gallons of chlorine over the past few weeks has caused me to need to drain my pool?
 
farmerjohn1324 said:
Do you mind explaining why adding 24 gallons of chlorine over the past few weeks has caused me to need to drain my pool?
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Because you have over chlorinated the pool. You will never get that stuff out of your pool and the first person who swims in it will have their clothes eaten off of them, they will have a severe rash on their skin, and their hair will turn green, whatever hasn't fallen out. Pool chemistry is a science, you just don't dump and dump until you see an effect. What is the PH of the pool? How much acid have you added? What is your alkalinity? What is your calcium hardness? Your chlorine has two readings: free chlorine (FC) and combined chlorine (CC). Free chlorine refers to the chlorine that is free and available to kill. Combined chlorine is chlorine that has done it’s job.

In my area, chlorine costs about $5 a gallon. So far, you have spend $120 on chlorine whether it needs it or not. I hired a pool guy who charged me $50 for a one time service, and told me exactly what to do, and how much chemicals to add. As said before, you can also grab a quart of pool water and go to your local pool supply company, and they will test the water.

My advice is to first clean that filter, so you don't burn up the pump. A pump motor will cost you ~$450, and that is provided you do not burn up the impeller. If you fry your pump assembly, expect to pay at least ~$1k to repair the damage. This is why you need to stop with the chlorine and get it analyzed before anything else.

I also want to avoid trying to tell you exactly what valve does what. One wrong move and you will cause your filter to explode, or burn out the pump. Someone has to be on site to verify what Jandy valve does what.

Please understand that I am not a mean old coot and trying to yell at you. I just don't want to waste your money for something that is not needed.
 
havasu said:
Because you have over chlorinated the pool. You will never get that stuff out of your pool and the first person who swims in it will have their clothes eaten off of them, they will have a severe rash on their skin, and their hair will turn green, whatever hasn't fallen out. Pool chemistry is a science, you just don't dump and dump until you see an effect. What is the PH of the pool? How much acid have you added? What is your alkalinity? What is your calcium hardness? Your chlorine has two readings: free chlorine (FC) and combined chlorine (CC). Free chlorine refers to the chlorine that is free and available to kill. Combined chlorine is chlorine that has done it’s job.

In my area, chlorine costs about $5 a gallon. So far, you have spend $120 on chlorine whether it needs it or not. I hired a pool guy who charged me $50 for a one time service, and told me exactly what to do, and how much chemicals to add. As said before, you can also grab a quart of pool water and go to your local pool supply company, and they will test the water.

My advice is to first clean that filter, so you don't burn up the pump. A pump motor will cost you ~$450, and that is provided you do not burn up the impeller. If you fry your pump assembly, expect to pay at least ~$1k to repair the damage. This is why you need to stop with the chlorine and get it analyzed before anything else.

I also want to avoid trying to tell you exactly what valve does what. One wrong move and you will cause your filter to explode, or burn out the pump. Someone has to be on site to verify what Jandy valve does what.

Please understand that I am not a mean old coot and trying to yell at you. I just don't want to waste your money for something that is not needed.
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The pool is green because of algae, correct? Wouldn't additional chlorine at least kill the algae, even if it does over chlorinate? It would at least not be green?

From what I read on Google, I just did clean (backwash) the filter.

I will gladly take pool water to a pool store.

I'm starting to wish I didn't have a pool. I don't even like swimming.
 
The pool store told me to add 12 x 2.5 gallon jugs of 12% chlorine.

The filter is not DE, it's a regular cartridge filter.
 
farmerjohn1324 said:
The pool store told me to add 12 x 2.5 gallon jugs of 12% chlorine.
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I find it very unusual for a pool guy to have you dump 30 gallons of chlorine, but didn't recommend any pool acid, bromine, or other necessary chemicals. A new pool on start up usually will take no more than 3 gallons of chlorine.

It is hard to determine from a pic whether the filter is DE or a cartridge type. I'm guessing you then have a one piece cartridge, similar to the one I have. With the pump off, split your filter and pull the cartridge. I'm sure it is caked with crap. Take a high pressure water hose and blow out all the little ridges. You can also semi-submerge the cartridge into a 50/50 mix of chlorine, and let it sit for an hour. Lord knows you have plenty of chlorine! Once the filter is clean, put the filter back together (using the clear pool silicone around your o rings) and test for leaks. You may need to scrub down the green algae until it is suspended in the water, but you will again have to clean the filter afterwards since it will clog the pores of the filter quickly.

As frodo recommended, a $6 test kit from Walmart will ensure you that your chemicals are balanced.
 
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