Basement Questions

I have bought books and read all over the internet but still have questions about building a room. When we are framing the wall we know we have to rent the gun that puts the nails into the concrete floor so I thought maybe would want to rent a nail gun at the same time but no where do I see anyone recommending nail guns to build the frame. Can you even use a nail gun to toenail in nails. Also I wanted to put insulation up in the ceiling joists but it is the "silent" floor joists and the inside of the lip is 19 in wide and the lips are 17 in wide. I thought if I could find 19" batting the lips on either side would keep it up there but I only see 15" or 23" at the home improvement stores. If there isn't 19 in then what do you use to keep it up. I looked at our county building code web site and they give some of the minimum code requirements which is 7 ft ceiling height. I don't have this all over the room and I saw in one book that to meet code half of the ceiling has to be the minimum height. Is that true? One more, are the Saniplus (upward flush) toliets expensive and do they work alright. Thank you so much for any help.

First...Welcome! Enjoy the board...

I can answer at least a couple of your questions.

Yes, a framing gun can tonail. Most big box stores and tool rental places have them.

You can buy the 23" wide batts and cut them to the right width. They'll be more difficult to attach, but would work.

There are some new (to me anyways) insulation batts on the market that have perforations to allow you to tear them to the width you want.

That's all I've got

Hello PMS:
Jeff has put you on the right track; I just want to add some more to his answer.
It might be easier to say 'cut the batts to the 19" length' and then they can be installed with push wires for the 24" spacing. Just place a piece in the top of the opening and put 2 push wires under it.
I can't speak for your local building inspector but yours is an existing ceiling height and he might not say anything. Otherwise, you would have to break up the floor, dig deeper and re-pour the floor.
I'm not familliar with the toilet you mentioned but I know there are some that flush into a tank, then grind and pump the waste out when it gets a certain level in the tank. They work very well. You just have to join it to your present sewer with direct fittings (glue it, screw it or clamp it). You don't want to leave an opening for foul odors to escape into the house.
Glenn

Push wires...That's what I was trying to remember

Thanks, glennjanie.

Another thought on ceiling height. If you're applying for permits, make sure to document the 7' height, and make sure to bring it to their attention, along with the fact that it's that way now.

As glennjanie said, they may require that you change it if you proceed, or they may let it go. I don't know what it's like where you live, but where I live, we can get a "variance" for things like that.

What I would not suggest is not telling them and having them find out after you've already roughed in the walls...they might let it go at that point...but they might not. Then you're in a whole different situation.

PMS said:

I have bought books and read all over the internet but still have questions about building a room. When we are framing the wall we know we have to rent the gun that puts the nails into the concrete floor

Click to expand...

There are versions of this that cost $20 or so that work fine. See

http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/the-handy-guys-store?B0009AFGQY

(I hope no one objects to me posting a link to my own store. The store is really Amazon but embedded in my site)

PMS said:

so I thought maybe would want to rent a nail gun at the same time but no where do I see anyone recommending nail guns to build the frame. Can you even use a nail gun to toenail in nails.

Click to expand...

yes. No problem with that. For a small job its sometimes much easier to nail by hand. For toenailing I really prefer the nail gun. For building walls I build them on the floor so I can nail top and bottom and then raise them into place. Checkout episode six of my podcast. We talked about compressors and nail guns there. See sig, below, for link.

PMS said:

Also I wanted to put insulation up in the ceiling joists but it is the "silent" floor joists and the inside of the lip is 19 in wide and the lips are 17 in wide. I thought if I could find 19" batting the lips on either side would keep it up there but I only see 15" or 23" at the home improvement stores. If there isn't 19 in then what do you use to keep it up.

Click to expand...

The wires as mentioned. I seem to recall seeing 19" unfaced insulation somewhere. Maybe I am dreaming. Remember, unfaced insulation is recommended between two conditioned spaces. Why do you want to insulate the ceiling? It only helps a tiensy bit with sound transmission . I will not go into that here if thats not your concern, the conversation can get long.

PMS said:

I looked at our county building code web site and they give some of the minimum code requirements which is 7 ft ceiling height. I don't have this all over the room and I saw in one book that to meet code half of the ceiling has to be the minimum height. Is that true?

Click to expand...

Confirm with your code department they will have final say if you are getting permits and inspections. Drywall your ceiling to maximize the height. Its more work but cheaper. Take the time, and expense, to relocate as much plumbing and so forth as possible to minimize sofit work it pays off in the end.

PMS said:

One more, are the Saniplus (upward flush) toliets expensive and do they work alright. Thank you so much for any help.

Click to expand...

Never used one. I have installed a couple of ejector pits. I do not like the look of the saniplus unless you can hide the pump stuff behind a wall.

Well this is great. I have never done a forum before and I am amazed that I can ask questions and there are nice guys to help. Thank you so much. I was just doing the insulation for sound. Ceiling is already too low for a drop ceiling with acoustical tiles so I thought the more insulation I could get up there the better for sound control.