First Homeowner Project Ever: Changing Ceiling Texture

Need you guys’ approval on the method/approach for my first project, on my first home: Removing the popcorn ceiling texture and applying knockdown texture (since it's empty). Please give this a quick read and let me know anywhere I am off, or just give me the thumbs up/go ahead.
Please keep in mind I am not experienced with.. well just about anything in the realm of homeowner maintenance/improvements/etc. So some things may be obvious to you, but not to me. BTW 8' ceilings.

1- Remove Popcorn. Wet ceiling with water using a compressed air sprayer. Scrape off popcorn.

2- Use joint compound to smooth out imperfections.

3- Sand the ceiling with one of those sanding pads. Now have a smooth ceiling.

4- Do I need to roll on primer first? Do I roll a layer of paint before applying texture? …lost here. If so, what type/brand of primer/paint is best for this?

5- Someone told me I could apply the texture using a sponge or plastic bag, and that using a hopper is a giant pain in the ***, but I think I'll stick with the more conventional method of using a hopper.

6- What type/brand of texture do I use? Any tips on mixing thickness and such? Tips on mixing thickness and such?

7- Need tips on the technique for applying the texture. What setting to use on hopper.. I plan on just going in a “wavelength” pattern and trying for uniform coverage.

8- Need tips on knocking down the texture with trowel. Pressure? Angle?


I really think I can get it done rather easy, but am a bit nervous. Obviously most of the things I am unsure of is about the actual materials I am using, i.e., Primers, Paint, Texture compound.

Thanks for any advice!

Frankly, I don't know why anyone would scrape off the popcorn only to retexture the ceiling. My preference is for nice smooth ceiling, painted flat white. It never goes out of style and I've never had anyone say....I really hate that smooth, flat, white ceiling.
The only other advice I have is search youtube and you'll find plenty of tips and practice on a piece of scrap sheetrock or cardboard before you do the ceiling.

Thanks! I actually was really thinking about smooth ceiling.. I've just heard that sometimes you need texture due to the quality of the drywall installation that will show taping/imperfections with smooth ceiling..

I personally like the look of a knock down textured ceiling. If the popcorn has never been painted, it is a fairly easy process. Problem is that builders like popcorn ceilings because it hides all the flaws, so expect to do alot of mudding to make the ceiling smooth. A word of caution, many popcorn ceilings contain asbestos, so do yourself a favor and get a sample tested before you decide on doing this home improvement.

dollerprod1 said:

Thanks! I actually was really thinking about smooth ceiling.. I've just heard that sometimes you need texture due to the quality of the drywall installation that will show taping/imperfections with smooth ceiling..

Click to expand...

The time invested in doing the knockdown is not much different than the time to do a proper smooth ceiling. Taping is one of those things that gets easier the more you do it.

Also, empty the room, cover the floor completely, and hang plastic in the doorways. Provide a window fan for exhaust ventilation.

dollerprod1 said:

Need you guys’ approval on the method/approach for my first project, on my first home: Removing the popcorn ceiling texture and applying knockdown texture (since it's empty). Please give this a quick read and let me know anywhere I am off, or just give me the thumbs up/go ahead.
Please keep in mind I am not experienced with.. well just about anything in the realm of homeowner maintenance/improvements/etc. So some things may be obvious to you, but not to me. BTW 8' ceilings.

1- Remove Popcorn. Wet ceiling with water using a compressed air sprayer. Scrape off popcorn.

2- Use joint compound to smooth out imperfections.

3- Sand the ceiling with one of those sanding pads. Now have a smooth ceiling.

4- Do I need to roll on primer first? Do I roll a layer of paint before applying texture? …lost here. If so, what type/brand of primer/paint is best for this?

5- Someone told me I could apply the texture using a sponge or plastic bag, and that using a hopper is a giant pain in the ***, but I think I'll stick with the more conventional method of using a hopper.

6- What type/brand of texture do I use? Any tips on mixing thickness and such? Tips on mixing thickness and such?

7- Need tips on the technique for applying the texture. What setting to use on hopper.. I plan on just going in a “wavelength” pattern and trying for uniform coverage.

8- Need tips on knocking down the texture with trowel. Pressure? Angle?


I really think I can get it done rather easy, but am a bit nervous. Obviously most of the things I am unsure of is about the actual materials I am using, i.e., Primers, Paint, Texture compound.

Thanks for any advice!

Click to expand...

First, how old is the house? Early versions of popcorn may have had asbestos. Better find out.

You can use an inexpensive pump sprayer instead of a air pressurized sprayer to soak the old popcorn. Wear protective gloves and mask while removing the popcorn ... which should be going into a plastic bag immediately while wet.

Now, about texturing. Here is a good discussion to help: http://drywall101.com/articles/texturegroups.php

Let the ceiling dry, then touch sand (if necessary) and fill gouges with drywall compound, let dry. If you are good, you can fill the tape lines and lightly sand them with a pad sander. This would leave you with a smooth ceiling ... but you have to have a good eye. Sometimes I have seen a drywall compound mixture floated in a skim coat leaving a more ragged look ... sometimes called a Santa Fe texture.

If you choose to shoot a knock down texture, now is when you do it. Option #1: Let it dry then "blade" it with a 6"-10" knife held at a 45 degree angle. The idea is to hard scrape the high spots off the knock down. You want to leave some texture, so don't go gorilla on it! Option #2: Apply a heavier coat of knock down and let it setup for 10-15 minutes ... but not dry. Then blade it while still wet to get that more texturized finish while still removing some of the tops of the spray. The light pressure is sort of like frosting a cake.

Let the ceiling dry overnight, prime and paint.

My method might be unorthodox but I have been doing it this way for 35 years. I mix latex paint with drywall compound. Normally I use white paint and the cheep stuff seem to work fine. If you want the finished ceiling or walls a color. You can use colored paint and play around how the color comes out. If I'm going to do swirls on a ceiling I mix it fairly thick trowel it on and then use a wallpaper brush for texture. If I want to roll on a texture I mix it thinner and use a texture roller. For a smoother finish I go thinner still much thicker than ceiling paint and roll it on. Hides bad drywall work well and looks very flat and smooth. I helped a guy doa knock down and we mixed it thick put on with a trowel and then used a sponge to pull down sharp points, let set up a little then troweled it down. Looked like a Mexican restaurant. I don't care for that rough texture but is what he wanted. As long as the old surface is clean and nothing loose I just go over what's there. If it bleeds thru then kilz primer.
Don't jump in to any of the above suggestions without some practice. I just did every wall and ceiling in a 110 year old house and added compound to all the wall and ceiling paints to some amount. Like I said its what I have been doing a long time. There may be new stuff out there that's easier.


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Old popcorn ceiling may have asbestos, not sure if you want to mess with it too much. Maybe paint over it for good luck then try some ceiling tiles!
You could always put the floor up there instead?

dollerprod1 said:

Thanks! I actually was really thinking about smooth ceiling.. I've just heard that sometimes you need texture due to the quality of the drywall installation that will show taping/imperfections with smooth ceiling..

Click to expand...

I've done a bunch of popcorn removals over the years and never had a customer ask for more texture of any kind. You might want to consider doing whatever is needed to get the ceiling smooth, then prime with a quality acrylic primer and top coat. I guarantee it will improve your potential resale over using a texture.
FWIW
YMMV

I don't think you can remove popcorn by wetting and scraping if it has been painted. At any rate, I would go with smooth ceilings and walls any day - repairing, cleaning, and painting a smooth surface is so much easier. You can get a good enough finish if you are patient and persistent enough. Just use many light coats and knock it all down level between coats (rather than sanding). Only sand at the very end and then only lightly. Use a trouble light held at a low angle for the final light touch-up coats. If the light does not reveal anything, you will not see any defects after painting. See http://www.drywallinfo.com/ for details.

We didn't have popcorn ceilings, but the previous owners had sprayed the entire interior with an ugly off white pinkish texture paint, walls and ceiling. We had the ceiling drywalled right over and 2 years later no issues with the seam showing. Even after a few small earthquakes. Someone may be able to see the seam in the right light at a certain angle if I showed them exactly where it was.

I have done hundreds of knock down ceilings over the years using a hopper gun.It is the only method I would use if you decide to go knockdown.To do it properly you will need a decent sized compressor.If you are renting a hopper you just as well skip that and rent one of these: It will make the job easier and does not require a separate compressor.
I use USG topping compound(blue lid) for texture and you need to thin it.Start with 1 quart water per 5 gal. and then go from there.I also squirt some Ivory dish soap in mine.It helps it flow smoother.Always test first on a drywall cut off or cardboard.
You don't want full coverage on the ceiling for knockdown.I would also go to any big box store and get a 36" knife with a long handle made for knockdown.About $15 and it allows you to stand on the floor and covers a larger area faster with less chance of ridges.The blade is already set at an angle.http://www.zoro.com/i/G5752241/?utm...8dsQynrmacKPpyIUhXL2bZXjGOq1hqrSs0aApEk8P8HAQ