What material to patch a countertop?

SpartanEpoxies
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IMHO I think you need a new counter top. looks to bad to me to patch. how much more is rotten?
 
Post form stock countertops from the home center. This is a corner, are the counters L or U shaped?
 
farmerjohn1324 said:
And then sheet laminate with contact cement over that?
Click to expand...

You replace the whole top with plywood and just add to the underside of the outer edge so it becomes 1 1/2" thick. In the video notice he did the front first the 1 1/2" edge want to be first so the so the top runs over it.
He filed the edges at the end, there is a router bit that will do that for you and he didn't show that the router only get to 3" from the wall so he had to file the last 3" by hand.
So when possible you cut the plywood a little big and fit it to the wall and under neath the from you mark where the cupboard is so when you add some to the bottom you know it will fit and then cut out the outer shape. making sure your saw is cutting square and tack a fence on to follow,
Best if you can do the laminating with the plywood loose so you can router all the way around.
The edge banding will be fun in the corner in front of the sink because you will have to file by hand in both direction for 3".

I would strongly suggest that you find someone with experience to help you, the learning curve can be expensive.

Standard sheets of this stuff is 5' x 10' joins can be a bitch.
 
I've assembled a few laminate countertops over the years. You need some tools you may not have including a router to cut the laminate edges after assembly. I recommend doing a wood edge rather than putting laminate on the vertical edges. It looks better and holds up better. I've done this and used a rounding over bit on my router to shape the wood edge and cut the laminate. If the top overall is less than 5' wide by 12' long you can buy laminate sheets at the home center in 5x12 sheets and eliminate the need for any seams. This is a big help. If you do make your own, definitely use plywood for the base rather than particle board. The cost difference isn't big and the plywood will hold up better and is easier on your saw blades than particle board.

With the sink in the corner, I would steer away from stock post-form counters because the seam will go right through the sink and will be a potential problem area down the road as water gets into the seam and delaminates the particle board substrate. If I did use post form with the seam at the sink I would definitely seal the seam before assembly. Paint it liberally with an oil-based polyurethane on the edge at the seam and around the sink and several inches on the bottom at the seam and around the sink.
 
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