Advice on insulating this

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ndonald

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Hi
I wanted opinions on insulation options on this Barn. This
picture is the second floor with shingled roof. I will be stripping the siding from the front and back and plan to do
conventional insulation. I am not sure however of the best way to do the area under roof.
Building located in Albany New York area and not going to
be for full time living and not bound to building codes, so far

thanks
nd

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If you use bat insulation, you would need venting at the bottom of the roof in each bay and at the peak and insure air can travel outside the insulation and then cover the area with a vapour bearier.
I don't know about using a spray foam with wood shingle.
 
Nice looking space--looks like it will make a great man-cave. The short diagonals at the bottom corners look slightly redundant--are they really necessary?

If it were mine, I'd get some quotes from insulation contractors in the area. You might be surprised at what you'll learn from them. And you could still do the work (whatever the consensus recommends) yourself.
 
The angle braces are there to tie the roof the the floor joists so the roof rafters don't splay out from the top of the wall. Could check with the people at Simpson Tie for a recommendation on replacing them
 
Thanks for the replies.... Shingles are not wood if that makes a difference. It is 30x60 and 28' from floor to peak

I was thinking of spraying insulation with a hope of leaving some wood
exposed, but cost might be a factor. I may just go with regular insulation
and finish with some type of board.... Pine etc
 
nealtw said:
The angle braces are there to tie the roof the the floor joists so the roof rafters don't splay out from the top of the wall. Could check with the people at Simpson Tie for a recommendation on replacing them
Click to expand...

If the roof rafters are properly connected to the sill plates and/or floor joists, (with the joists properly sized), the floor joists themselves will keep the roof and walls from "splaying out." And before nealtw chews on me, I know that's a big "if." The diagonal braces will certainly make for stiffer connections, but may not be absolutely necessary. Should you choose not to get a local engineer's professional opinion, you could certainly leave them in place. You could even build short kneewalls in front of them, since the space between/behind them is marginal wasted space anyway (but makes a great location for heat and electrical runs, or hiding Christmas toys from the kids).
 
Bridgeman; Take note that the roof dosn't make to the floor and is not locked into the floor joists, you would be putting a lot of faith in a bunch of toe nails to stop the roof from blowing away and if thoses walls are just short on top of the floor, it wouldn't have chance. I do like your idea of building plumb walls in front of them and it would be better for insulation too.
 
Good point, nealtw--I stand corrected. Two sets of eyes are always better than one, especially since mine are going downhill in a hurry. I missed the rafter/wall detail in my haste.
 
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