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Old 10-08-2017, 08:57 PM  
zepper
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Okay, I could've sent off a sample of our baseboard and had nice, perfect corners CNC'd up, but where's the fun in that? So I thought it might amuse you guys to see how I ended up doing this.

Lacking a lathe (and the courage to learn to turn wood without maiming myself), I wondered how I could make round pieces of wood.

It occurred to me that hole saws—used for things like door handles and deadbolts—also make round cutouts. So I thought that if I got some of the right diameters, I might be able to cut and assemble the pieces I needed for my corners.

I'd need to cut two sizes, to match our baseboard's two thicknesses:





Our corners have a 3/4" radius—so imagining that as a circle, here's how I figured it, looking down from the top:




Thus I'd need 3 saws:

• 2-1/2" and 2-3/4", for the molding's two thicknesses

• 1-1/2", for the inner bore (against the corner)

But hole saws are sized by their outer diameters (which seems only fair, as they're meant for holes, not cutouts). So to make pieces big enough, I needed the next saw sizes up: 2-5/8" and 2-7/8".

I got some nice fine-grained 1x4 fir (actually 3/4" thick), cut some rings out of it, and center-bored them:





I glued together enough pieces to cover our baseboard's height. They didn't come out exactly right, of course, so I sliced off each of the cylinder's ends to get a proper match:





[Continued...]



Last edited by zepper; 10-11-2017 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 10-08-2017, 09:07 PM  
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I then used my miter saw to cut the cylinder into quarters:








That worked out great, as the kerf of my miter saw removed the extra 1/8" of diameter I'd needed to add to my saw sizes. ;?)

(NOTE: Rather than the fine-grained fir I actually used, those last three photos show the prototype I cut from a two-by-four—hence the thicker slices and wacky long end grain, which would've been unusable. It was also really hard cutting such thick wood, which rubs against the saws's interior. Using thinner boards and making more pieces was the way to go.)

I applied wood filler to the outer sides, and sanded them smooth:





I couldn't nail the corners on through our walls's steel corner beads, so I glued them to the ends of their adjoining baseboards, which turned out to be fine (being sure everything was snugged up first). I primed the corners in-place, puttied and sanded the joins to even them out, then caulked and painted. The results were surprisingly passable:





Considering my various non-pro remodels around the place, our friends have graciously agreed to leave their magnifying glasses at home anyway. :?)

Maybe it was silly to go to such trouble, but it was a fun challenge. I may have even found a new use for an old tool, provided one's masochistic enough.



Last edited by zepper; 10-19-2017 at 01:35 AM.
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Old 10-09-2017, 03:56 AM  
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That turned out really nice zepper! Good job!
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Old 10-09-2017, 05:59 AM  
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I'll give you 4 thumbs up for that one. Nice job looks great.
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Old 10-09-2017, 06:43 AM  
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Nice work.
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Old 10-09-2017, 12:55 PM  
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GOOD JOB !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I taped your man card back together and had it laminated
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Old 10-09-2017, 03:11 PM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frodo View Post
GOOD JOB !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ... I taped your man card back together and had it laminated
LOL (in manly way of course)
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Old 10-09-2017, 04:48 PM  
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Nice!! I like it when you don't have to pay an arm and leg to somebody else!��Looks great!
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Old 10-19-2017, 01:29 AM  
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Just a short follow up... Gluing up some actual 3/4" (not-2x4!) disks:




And two corners glued/sanded/filled/primed in place, before caulking and painting (ideally, remembering to spackle the brad holes first):





If you look real closely, you may see the corners's radii are ever so slightly bigger than the wall's, due to the inexplicable inability to order hole saws in finer increments (LOL). Fortunately, the excellent flat interior paint I'm using (Aura) does a good job masking this slight impropriety.

Thanks again for your encouragement, it means a lot.



Last edited by zepper; 10-19-2017 at 01:38 AM.
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