Powder room upgrade plan, DIY with pics

The prehung door is designed to fit in to a 26" rough opening. You would use shims for the difference between the opening and the frame. The solid core weighs 90lbs and is obviously more expensive (nearly $57 difference). Hollow core is half the weight at 45lbs. So, it depends on how much you can lift and how much you want to pay. I will recommend Schlage brand door handles. They are pricey but they have a lifetime warranty & are very durable. You may also want to look in to quick door hanging kits that make it easier to install.
Neal knows a bit about doors and door installation so he can give tips (if you've never installed one before). He's been giving me advice because I'm going to be installing doors (hopefully soon).

For the flooring issue, if you want laminate in the rest of the home, you can check out the total thickness/height of the flooring products and compare. IMO, it's ok to have a transition from kitchen to rest of house, but that's just me. They have a variety of vinyl plank and LVT (luxury vinyl tile) options that look like wood or ceramic tile, but don't have the same problems. I recommend popping in to our sister site http://www.flooringforum.com/forum/ for more detail on flooring. There are quite a few members here that also post over there and the people are friendly. They are helping me plan for my flooring renovations.

On a side note, I'm interested in how your vanity/sink will look when it's done. I love seeing people's projects. Looks like it will be a vessel sink. For cabinets, one suggestion: Toekick storage drawer. You can put bathroom scale or small items in the drawer hidden away.

Before you order this door assembly, make sure you can get the jamb resized for your narrower wall thickness, because it comes with a 4-9/16" jamb.

If not, you can trim the jamb on site to fit your wall thickness, you just need a saw.

Because the door will be a swing-out, you need to to keep the level of the hall floor in mind, before you cut the jamb to length.

Ok after measuring my rough height is 82 on my door... Weird

That's pretty much standard framing height, the door is 80", 1/8" space, 3/4" jamb header and an allowance for the flooring.

The casing will hide the space.

Great information thanks, I am reconsireding the kitchen flooring. Also notable I have laid my forst tile job ever: 2 times. I noticed, after the job was done, that the tiles seems to be a little uneven. Pressing a little on one, I ksaw it was moving a little too much on the opposite dies...pulled it off and it was not adhered at all. Thin set seemed too stiff. So I pulled most all tiles out, re mixed a new batch of thin set, scraped the not yet dry mortar. Re-tiled.

Valentine's day lol I wouldn'T want it any other way haha ok maybe ;-)

that toe kick hide out is awesome. that is some serious skills.

danie said:

Great information thanks, I am reconsireding the kitchen flooring. Also notable I have laid my forst tile job ever: 2 times. I noticed, after the job was done, that the tiles seems to be a little uneven. Pressing a little on one, I ksaw it was moving a little too much on the opposite dies...pulled it off and it was not adhered at all. Thin set seemed too stiff. So I pulled most all tiles out, re mixed a new batch of thin set, scraped the not yet dry mortar. Re-tiled.

Valentine's day lol I wouldn'T want it any other way haha ok maybe ;-)

that toe kick hide out is awesome. that is some serious skills.

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The 82" doorway allows you to raise the door up a little so the door will not scrape the floor when it swings. Basically, you figure out what the finished floor height will be for the flooring in the hallway or area where the door swings and you want the bottom of the door to be a little higher than that in case of uneven floor.

I hope the tiles are all sticking well now.
The toekick storage thing is not too difficult to do from what I've read. It's basically making a small drawer, but since it is near the floor you'll have to make sure it can pull out smoothly without scraping the floor, so it will not be quite flush with the floor.

Another thing I thought of, when you install your toilet, make sure you use 100% silicone caulk and only put the caulk around the front and the sides. Leave the back uncaulked in case the wax seal leaks. That way, you will see the water and know it needs to be replaced instead of water being trapped under the toilet and ruining the floor.

Silicone works best, 20' deep in a landfill, unopened.

Use polyseamseal.

They are good YA yippe yay...tiles are solid, floor feels solid, lines are straight,,,,,horray! Now grouting test

ok it is small potatoes to seasonned renovators, but I am so happy to have done and completed my forst full tiling job. It's nt perfect and I do see the slight discrpencies in the lines between tiles.

I did have them laid perfectly but had to pull them because the cement was too stiff and they were not adhering. Repostioning them after, with the inability to reach far because I could not lean on the other tiles, i was not able to use the spacers to my convenience. i think I can live with it , though Ill see better when dry

Looks Good :thbup:

thanks there bud

Looks good to me! Turned out far better than my attempt at self-leveling flooring. LOL.

I'm looking forward to seeing more progress. Are you going to install baseboards?

I should compete this is about 48 hours. Baseboards will be similar colored wood. Will do reveal pictures

Snoonyb said:

Silicone works best, 20' deep in a landfill, unopened.

Use polyseamseal.

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Funny but, the hole seems to get deeper every time you repeat this little ditty. But i don't think you've ever explained why you feel that way.

slownsteady said:

Funny but, the hole seems to get deeper every time you repeat this little ditty. But i don't think you've ever explained why you feel that way.

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It's been the same hole, the same depth, for 40yrs.

The proof is in the pudding.

Snoonyb said:

It's been the same hole, the same depth, for 40yrs.

The proof is in the pudding.

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What will they think in 1000 years when they dig that up.:trophy:

Someone was intuitive.

Well that explains it; you've been using pudding instead of silicone all this time! :rofl:

Good point. There are heaters that are rated for bathrooms/wet areas, but they might be pricey. As for the vent fan, the good thing about a bathroom that small is that you don't need high cfm. Too bad the vent-light-heaters are not as popular these days. I have them in all of the bathrooms in my house but the motors died after 30+ years (possibly longer). They were nice when they worked though.