Swapping non GFCI plugs for GFCI plugs

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So, here is what I gathered.

GFCI is a different type of protection than a normal circuit breaker.

If I can find the outlet that is first in line, I can wire one in there and then the whole run beyond is protected.


Now, one last question... White or Black, which goes where?

KULUTZ posted a correct example of in-line wiring from a GFCI recep. and to put it into words; with the face of the recep. facing you and the ground stake down, the hot, (black in your case), goes on the right, the neutral is on the left.
 
I don’t understand your post. Yes they both interrupt the supply of power, but they do it under two entirely different sets of circumstances. One is required for every bit of electrical service and the other has limitations to where it is required based around the likelihood of coming in contact with a ground fault. There is all kinds of safety, and circuit overload and ground fault are completely different.

Your statement is correct but I don’t see where it is helpful to a person trying to learn and decide on if they want to add GFCI to a circuit that is already protected for current overload by circuit breakers. Additional facts should build on a person’s understanding of a subject. When I read your post as if I understood very little on the subject I could misconstrue the information as if I have one I don’t need the other.

And your post #13 isn't?
 
In addition, GFCI protection devices fail at times, leaving the switching contacts closed and allowing the device to continue to provide power without protection. According to a 1999 study by the American Society of Home Inspectors, 21% of GFCI circuit breakers and 19% of GFCI receptacles inspected didn't provide protection, leaving the energized circuit unprotected. In most cases, damage to the internal transient voltage surge protectors (metal-oxide varistors) that protect the GFCI sensing circuit were responsible for the failures of the protection devices. In areas of high lightning activity, such as southwest Florida, the failure rate for GFCI circuit breakers and receptacles was over 50%!

This why they must be tested on a monthly basis. Outside power surges and transient surges may damage them. The newer qualitymodels are self test.
 
Carefull, you are about to enter the realm of "excessive competency".
 
So, here is what I gathered.

GFCI is a different type of protection than a normal circuit breaker.

If I can find the outlet that is first in line, I can wire one in there and then the whole run beyond is protected.

If you desire to protect the complete circuit, you might want to consider a GFCI breaker.

The below ill shows wire attachment to GFCI receptacle as a method known as backstabbing. It is better/safer to connect the wires to the device using the terminal screws.

GFCI Receptacle Wiring _1.jpg
 
Carefull, you are about to enter the realm of "excessive competency".

I am well known for allowing my mouth to overload my a$$. Just ask my 'ol lady... :hide:
 
Actually they do, as the article points out, and protect from elec. shock.

The difference is in the results from a failure, and when the breaker fails the wiring is also no longer protected.

All I know is when you are working in the rain the cord can be in water all day no problem, when you add a gfci you better keep the cord ends dry.
 
All I know is when you are working in the rain the cord can be in water all day no problem, when you add a gfci you better keep the cord ends dry.

:eek:

R U saying you work on a wet job site with no GFCI protection? :confused:
 
I was just re-reading this thread and came across this-

My kitchen has no GFCI plugs. I do not see anywhere where there is any protection besides the normal breakers in the panel. They are all 3 prong plugs.

My thinking is GFCI is safer than normal plugs in the kitchen. So, can I swap them out.

DEFINITELY!

As mentioned, you want GFCI protection anywhere around water such as the kitchen, bath, laundry areas, unfinished basements and outside.

Due to the age of the home, the wiring is most likely not compliant with current code and would cost a fortune to bring it into compliance but you can make it safer.
 
:eek:

R U saying you work on a wet job site with no GFCI protection? :confused:

All my life I worked in the rain long before gfcis and you do get used to a tingle from time to time.
The cord getting in the water is a pain in the *** but the real surprise I got was with a gfci and double insulated saw ( two prong plug) if you are not grounded power will go thru you and back to the saw when the saw is running and it does not pick up a problem.
When you have had the cord end in a puddle and the gfci will not reset, spray wd40 in the the plug.:mad::)

So when you drop the hair dryer in the sink and there is no ground ( plastic pipes) it might trip.
 
If you desire to protect the complete circuit, you might want to consider a GFCI breaker.

The below ill shows wire attachment to GFCI receptacle as a method known as backstabbing. It is better/safer to connect the wires to the device using the terminal screws.

The way wires connect to a GFCI thru the back are quite a bit different than back stabs that have a friction spring connection. The back wired GFCI’s are a mechanical connection and the screw tightens the clamp. The wire is not intended to have a hook under the screw head.

I wish they made more outlets with the clamp connection it is a very good design IMO.
 
The way wires connect to a GFCI thru the back are quite a bit different than back stabs that have a friction spring connection. The back wired GFCI’s are a mechanical connection and the screw tightens the clamp. The wire is not intended to have a hook under the screw head.

I wish they made more outlets with the clamp connection it is a very good design IMO.

If a guy read the instruction , he may get that stab and tighten thing, I wrapped the screws with mine and on the last one I loosened the screw to much and the nut fell off inside, took an hour to shake it just right to get the nut back in place and start the screw, then I read the instructions.:rofl:
 
The way wires connect to a GFCI thru the back are quite a bit different than back stabs that have a friction spring connection. The back wired GFCI’s are a mechanical connection and the screw tightens the clamp. The wire is not intended to have a hook under the screw head.

I wish they made more outlets with the clamp connection it is a very good design IMO.

I've seen both. There is nothing wrong (IMO) with the ones you are describing. You just have to be careful what you are throwing in the cart.
 
I was just re-reading this thread and came across this-



DEFINITELY!

As mentioned, you want GFCI protection anywhere around water such as the kitchen, bath, laundry areas, unfinished basements and outside.

Due to the age of the home, the wiring is most likely not compliant with current code and would cost a fortune to bring it into compliance but you can make it safer.

The house is 1970s. It is all copper.Besides the lack of GFCI, what is not to code? What is missing?
 
Mostly all you have worry about is what other home owners have done, I think here if you actually change any wiring in the kitchen you have to bring it up to code, but if it works it's good. And that does not include changing outlets.;)
 
The house is 1970s. It is all copper.Besides the lack of GFCI, what is not to code?

What is missing?

...whew...

Minimum of 2 20A counter-top circuits- separate lighting circuits - 20A GFCI circuits for GD/DW - 20A microwave circuit (if not counter-top model) - not necessary but may desire separate 15A or 20A circuit for fridge.

See what I mean?

I think (depends on local AHJ) as long as there is no major kitchen remodel, the old work can be grandfathered in.

But you do want to GFCI the counter-top circuits at the minimum with a GFCI receptacle(s) so if one trips you won't have to walk to the box.

And then AFCI comes into play... :help:

Kitchen Receptacles (SABC-GFCI) _1 - Sect 210.52(C) NEC.jpg
 
...whew...

Minimum of 2 20A counter-top circuits- separate lighting circuits - 20A GFCI circuits for GD/DW - 20A microwave circuit (if not counter-top model) - not necessary but may desire separate 15A or 20A circuit for fridge.

See what I mean?

I think (depends on local AHJ) as long as there is no major kitchen remodel, the old work can be grandfathered in.

But you do want to GFCI the counter-top circuits at the minimum with a GFCI receptacle(s) so if one trips you won't have to walk to the box.

And then AFCI comes into play... :help:


I understand. I am in Canada BTW, so I know that local codes apply.

I will not be doing a remodel for a few years, but the GFCI and possibly the AFCI will be done soon.

Not sure if fridge is on it's own circuit. I know the plugs may be all on the same one.
There are some breakers not labeled. So, guess what I will be doing shortly?
 
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